On my 1999 ford contour fan wont turn on.hot wired it and it works.my temperature gauge in control panel on all the way over.i dont know if the relays are good or not. dont know where if the temperature sensors at. same vehicle ,having trouble with the ac/ heater. check the blower and it works,replace the blower resistor with a new one ,but still nothing. can you tell me what how to solve it.

The cooling fan is controlled by the coolant temperature sensor near the thermostat, and when it senses too high temperature of the coolant, it operates the fan relay.
Check the fuse for the cooling fan, the cooling fan relay, and the fan itself for proper operation. You can use a multimeter to see if power is getting to the sensor. If not, and you find the fuse is good, then you'll have to find the break in the wire.

It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniature jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

The radiator fan circuits are VERY LIKELY to be the cause of your overheating problem. Ford had a lot of problems with the wiring harnesses on some of the Contours. This needs to be checked.

The entire cooling system should be checked over real good.

By this, I mean that the system should be checked for the possibility of blown head gaskets (especially if it has already overheated - good change of warped cylinder heads). The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor needs to be verified to make sure it is working properly. This needs to be done with a scanner that can read sensor data. The actual temperature of the engine should be checked with a pyrometer or infrared thermometer while comparing the ECT data to see if it matches. The radiator cooling fans should be checked to see if they come on at the correct temperature (225 to 230 degrees Fahrenheit) - this also will require a scanner. If the fans are not working properly, then the fan circuits must be diagnosed.

The thermostat may also be malfunctioning...Please note that NEW and GOOD are NOT the same thing! It would not be the first time I found a NEW thermostat messing up. Again, proper thermostat operation can be verified by graphing the ECT data, or using an infrared thermometer to determine exactly when the thermostat is opening (if it is even bothering to open at all.)

Then there is the possibility of a damaged water pump that is not circulating the engine coolant properly. Also a clogged radiator is always a possibility on a 13-year-old car.

HOT WIRE COOLING FAN USING JUMPER WIRES TO BATTERY.IF FAN DONT RUN WHEN HOT WIRED FAN MOTOR BAD NEED REPLACING. IF FAN RUN WHEN HOT WIRED. CHECK COOLING FAN FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL IS GOOD.YOUR ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR NOT WORKING.IT CONTROL COOLING FAN AT SET TEMPERATURE IF SENSOR OPEN OR FAULTY THE COOLING FAN WONT TURN ON.CHECK COOLING FAN WIRES FOR DAMAGE.IF ALL STILL CHECK OUT GOOD HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED FOR PCM FAULT.IF IT FAILS NO COOLING FAN WONT TURN ON.

on blowermotor ground ground wire to a go metal ground and see if motor runs if it does then you have a bad ground. also try tapping on motor if it turns on then replace motor,hope this helps.

your thermostatic fan relays aren`t funtioning properly

is the temp gauge going to hot? if so, it may be going into failsafe mode where it shuts off half the cylinders to protect the engine.

check your engine coolant temp sensor. It sends a signal to tunrn the cooling fan on.
Does the cooling fan come under the hood?
Does the cooling fan come on when you turn the a/c on?

report back.

you need to replace the cooling fan because the resistor is in the cooling fan and it is best to go to a salvage yard and have them look it up on a computer and it will tell what fan will work on your car

Sounds like Heater matrix blocked, check pipes going from engine bay into bulk head both should be getting hot if one is not then may be worth removing pipes and trying to flush it through as would be expensive to renew it as its a large job.

Sorry - which ones? A/C heating or engine cooling fans?

Check fuses to make sure they're still ok. Remove the ones for the fans - and replace to clear any corrosion off them.

If it's the cooling fans at the front, these are controlled by a temperature switch which may be faulty.
Locate it , and measure the conductivity between contacts when cold - and when engine is very hot. The switch should close at around 90 degrees - 3/4 of the temperature gauge.

If the switch is ok, the relays controlling the fans are probably corroded.
Sometimes mounted on the fan housing - follow the fan motor wiring directly to them.

Hope this helps.