Question about 1986 Toyota Tercel

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86 Tercel 2wd wagon won't charge it's battery

Has new alternator, voltage reg., condensor, battery, terminals, fusible link and good ignition fuse

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Clean battery terminals ,bring battery to be tested after charging, after reinstalling battery run car and test alternator output it should be a minimum of 13-14volts if it is under 13 replace alternator , use a voltmeter set on 12 volt 10 amp dc to check the wire to check is located on the back of the alternator covered with a rubber grommet of course hold negative wirw on volt meter to ground and touch red wire to big terminal on back of alternator while car is running should have 14 volts or at least 13 volts

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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I have a 1996 ford e150 new alternator good battery but won't charge was charging but quit is there a fuse or relay


There are a couple of fusible links and a regulator fuse . G 60amp located in the underhood fuse box. Is the charge indicator lit on the instrument cluster ? The fusible links connect at the starter relay on righ inner fender . Do you know what a fusible link is and what it looks like ? New alternator ? aftermarket or ford replacement ? Check for B+ voltage at wires on the alternator , to see which have B+ voltage look at wiring diagram at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. yr . make , model , engine etc... System click engine , then charging system under subsystem . Click search . then click blue link .

Jan 08, 2017 | Ford E-150 Cars & Trucks

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I HAVE A 2003 PT CRUISER AND THE BATTRY LIGHT IS ON NEW BATTERY NEW ALT AND THEY SAY IT IS THE VOLTAGE REG


The PT cruiser uses a field signal from the PCM to regulate the voltage. If you are not getting approximately 14 volts at the battery terminals when the engine is running, either:
  1. The replacement alternator is faulty.
  2. The generator field control signal from the PCM is faulty.
  3. The Fusible Link between the alternator and the Starter Motor (which is also the same electrical point as the battery positive terminal is open.
Use the diagram below and check the alternator output at the point labeled "A11 6 BK/GY" If this is 14 volts and there is not 14 volts at the battery terminals, then the Fusible link is bad. If there is no voltage or way less than 15 volts at the alternator, then the alternator or the PCM field signal is bad. Ensure the connector from the PCM is connected properly.


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Sep 27, 2015 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

2 Answers

Alternator checks out good and battery checks out good but alternator does not charge battery is there somethin g else I can check


You have to make sure that you are getting power to the alternator. It could be something as simple as a blown fuse in the power distribution center.

Jul 14, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.6 pentastar. I have the battery light on on my dash and with my scan Guage connected to the obd2 connector inside the van it's showing 12.3 with the van...


Your charging system is not working correctly. Unlike most other vehicles, the alternator in yours does not have a built in regulator circuit. Some troubleshooting must be done to find the defective component. Most of this can be done with the vehicle still assembled.

First, check that you don't have a blown fusible link. In most newer cars, these will be in the underhood fuse panel, and look like giant fuses. If good, you will read very nearly zero volts and zero ohms when measuring between the positive battery terminal and the alternator output terminal. If either measurement doesn't read zero, find the loose connection, bad wire, or blown fusible link.

Next, check the ground connections to the engine, battery, and car body to make sure you don't have a bad wire or connection somewhere. Again, measure voltage and resistance between the negative battery terminal and all associated grounding locations. For a quickie test, you can rig a jumper cable between the battery negative terminal and the alternator case. If there is a spark when you make the connection, you have a bad ground somewhere.

If your battery is well connected to the alternator, the problem may lie in the control circuit. Most Chrysler alternators have two control wires that control the field coil. Some control the battery current and have constant ground supplied, and some have battery voltage applied and control the ground current. To test, disconnect the control connector and measure the voltage of both terminals with the ignition in the "off" and "run" positions. Make a chart of each terminal and its corresponding voltage.

Start the vehicle and measure both terminals again. If the terminals tend to be zero volts, except when the vehicle runs you have voltage on one terminal, you have a system where the computer controls battery voltage. If the terminals tend to be 12 volts when the ignition is on, then one terminal goes low when the engine runs, the computer controls ground current. If the voltages of one terminal change but not the other, this suggests a bad computer.

To do a go/no go test of the alternator unit, you can connect the control pins on the alternator with the control connector disconnected. Simply connect jumper wires to the two control terminals of the alternator. Connect one jumper to a known good ground, leaving the other jumper loose. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals or to the output wire on the alternator. Start the vehicle and briefly connect the second jumper wire to the positive battery terminal while watching the voltmeter. While the jumpers are both connected, the battery voltage should rise dramatically.If it doesn't, this suggests a bad alternator.

If all this sounds too complicated or dangerous, a good mechanic can perform a similar diagnosis in under an hour with definite results. Good luck.

Jan 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

There is a ground some were that is causeing the battery not to charge put new selinoid ,new battery,alternater,new key lock cylender check wirers fuses relay switches and battery still wont charge


It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Jun 15, 2011 | 1987 Ford F 150

1 Answer

I have a 1984 dodge D150, not charging, battery is good,charges with charger\r\ntruck starts and runs pretty good,but is running off of battery, NEW altenater,regulator,and belts belts are tight,replaced...


The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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Jun 12, 2011 | Dodge Ram 150 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Will not charge


you will get some funny answers from some of these "experts " The symptoms suggest to me with out much doubt that the regulator is not doing its job correctly ,consistently.Iwould take it to an AUTO ELECTRICIAN and get it tested in situ.... there is only 4 things it can be , wireing ---battery---alternator-----regulator and of those the reg. is the only one that chops and changes. it will cost little for a sparky to check the reg ,. AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE OUTCOME

Oct 21, 2009 | 1983 Buick Skyhawk

2 Answers

TRUCK NOT CHARGING


check all the fusible link wires on battery(s) and leading to fuse panel!!

Jun 19, 2009 | 1992 Dodge Ram 250

1 Answer

Battery not charging new alt new volt. reg.wtf?


Ensure alternator excitation lamp (IGN) indicator lights when Ignition vehicle ignition is switched on prior to starting engine.
This light should normally extinguish as soon as motor starts.
(+12V is supplied through a small lamp to the Alternator 'IND' terminal whenever the Ignition switch is on).
Also check for any burnt out fusible link on the alternator output- terminal B+ should have battery voltage on it at all times.

Jun 12, 2009 | 1988 Lincoln Continental

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