Question about 1988 Chevrolet S-10
It was running fine, went into a store for about 40 minutes, came out and it would crank just fine, but not fire. I came back 3 hours later and it started right up. Ran it until warmed up, turned it off and tried starting it again. It cranked ok but would not fire. I let i cool down for a few hours, came back and tried it again. Same thing, cranked just fine, but wouldn't fire. I put in an ignition module. Same thing, cranks great but wouldn't fire. Had it towed home. Had the new ignition module tested and it showed good, had the old one tested and it also showed good. Replace the coil. (I know they don't often go bad, but what the heck). Same result, cranks great, won't fire. Next I replaced the coil pick up which involved pulling the distributor, knocking out the pin, taking it apart and putting the coil pickup in. I had marked the distributor and rotor positions and put it back in the engine. Same result, cranks great, no spark. I have power to the coil and from the coil to the 2 pronged connection on the new ignition module with the key in the on position. I've checked all the under dash fuses and all are ok. Any ideas? Could it be the computer? Both fuses are good. Also the fuel pump is working and it has gas too. Help please.
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Posted on Jul 29, 2008
I had a similar problem with my car. My friend who happened to have experience changed the spark plugs for me and things turned out fine. Can't exactly see the root of your problem with the posts though so it may or may not work.
Posted on Jul 29, 2008
I think you have spent enough money to realize it's time to take it to a certified GM Tech, it can be any number of things, poor ground connection, faulty Power Train Control Module, I believe it is a Module problem because it sounds heat related. I am sorry I can't give more useful advice but these types of problems require tests that over the internet I can't do. Call me if you like 925-459-0571
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
hi there, if you can feel the misfire at an idle but not at a higher rpm than the fuel pressure regulator is bad im working on one right now that has mifire code and random misfire codes coming up
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
I reccommend putting WD40 or CRC on the connections to stop them corroding over time. You also want to make sure the Distributor Cap gasket seals well to keep out water. last make sure you don't get the leads mixed up, best to replace them one at a time. cheers
Posted on May 17, 2009
Check the timing and make sure the vacuum hose for the advance is not leaking or cracked. Also make sure it is plugged into the front of the carb at the base.
If the timing is dead on and there are a lot of miles on the timing chain, bump the timing ahead 1 or maybe 2 degrees to compensate for chain stretch. That may help.
It could also be that the vacuum advance on the distributor has started leaking and may need to be replaced. You cuold also try a tank ot high test or premium gas. That has been known to get rid of spark knock. Hope this helps.
Posted on May 05, 2010
153624 is the firing order ,or do you mean the low tension wires if so reply to this and i will have a look at my one in the garage tomorrow
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
With the valve cover off, turn the crank so the timing pointer is at 0. This is Top Dead Center. As you go past this point the exhaust valve should start to open. If it does then insert yout distributor so the rotor lines up with #1 plug location. If the intake starts to open, leave the distributor out and make 1 complete rotation of the crank until the pointer lines up to 0 again. As you go past TDC this time the exhaust should start to open. Now you can put your distributor in. The crankshaft makes 2 turns to every oine turn on the camshaft. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 04, 2011
Testimonial: "thanks,that helps alot"
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