Question about Toyota Camry

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I'm changing the left front axel on my 1992 camry.I need to know if I have to break the ball joint or the strut when changing the axel.

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You need to dis assemble the ball joint to remove the axle.

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

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1989 Subaru GL Wagon, told I need both axels replaced and ball joints as well as brakes replaced, for $500.00. Is that too much?


That whole deals sounds fishy. Brake job should be about $100 depending on parts. That part about needing to replace axle to replace ball joints doesn't sound right. I've been a diesel mechanic for 30 yrs and bought, drove and fixed used cars a bunch. Not that specific one, but plenty of them. Get another opinion.

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You'll need to extract the end the axle shaft from the hub bearing. There is not enough play in the axle shaft to allow this without at least partially removing the front strut assembly. Sometimes just separating the lower ball joint will allow the strut/spring to move enough to work the spline out the bearing. Once you've done that, then you must "pop" the inner CV joint out of the transaxle. It is installed with a snap ring to hold it in place. This process can be tricky and you can damage the CV joint or the transaxle case if you don't exercise caution while doing this. Be careful not to pull outward on the axle shaft...this will not release the inner joint and will most likely cause the inner joint to separate, making removal more difficult.

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Alarming, don't drive it except to a mechanic. Possibly:

- wheel nuts are loose
- wheel hub nut is loose
- axle bearing has collapsed (that would be noisy)
- front knuckle ball joint has failed
- suspension strut to knuckle bolts (two) are loose
- strut upper mounting has failed or is loose

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need to see if its upper ball joint or lower ball joint or strut itself use greese

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place the vehicle on a lift (preferred) and remove the RH front wheel. Remove the driver axel retaining nut (1 1/4" nut) and washer. Remove the lower ball joint retaining nut (17mm nut). Using a 10 oz hammer, strike the nuckle where the lower ball joint is attached to it (be careful not to strike the grease boot) while applying downward force on the lower control arm until it pops loose. Once loose, pry down on the lower control are while simultaneously moving the strut to one side untill the joint is clear/away from the knuckle. Now remove the drive axel from the the spline of the hub bearing. Using a pry bar, pop loose the axel from the transmission differential. Installation of the new axel is in reverse order.

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Ball joints are a serious safety issue, especially if they are making noise. Strut Rod bushings slightly less so. I agree with you, if they are that bad you should have heard your noise before you changed the tires. You didn't sat what kind of noise, but the problems he suggested should make a clunk or snap. Your best bet would be to double check to make sure he properly tightened the wheel nuts when he changed the tires, if you have alloy rims they need to be torqued. If he just put them on with an air gun he may have damaged the rim which could make it break and fall off. And take the car to a repair shop that you trust and have them check your front end. They'll be able to tell you what the tire guy did. Don't put it off because you will find yourself in serious trouble if any of these things are the problem.

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it could be someting up ur exhaust check it with a rod

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