Question about Ford Ranger

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2004 ford ranger. temperature gauge suddenly going into red, then back to normal. went into emergency cooling and check engine light came on. replaced thermostat and it seemed O.K. and light went off. same thing happened again, but I did not drive it enough to make engine light come on. was going to check temperature sending unit, but have not found it yet.electric cooling fan is working. any ideas? Thanks.

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  • clintsmith2 Jul 27, 2008

    I thought hose was cold the first time it happened so I replaced the thermostat. Problem returned so I thought it might be the coolant temp. sening unit, but I have not had time to find it. Any thoughts. Thanks.

  • joweba Jul 29, 2008

    I have the same symtoms on my Ford Ranger (2002) Needle suddenly jumps from normal to red, by the time I notice and maybe drive a tenth of a mile ( the time it takes to run wicked bad thoughts through your mind) and finally decide, Okay.... I'll pull over.... apply turn signal and brake and Viollah.... needle returns to normal. I have become a parts changer it seems with no satisfaction. Replaced Fan Clutch, Reverse flushed radiator, acid cleaned condensor coil, replaced Thermostat and Housing assembly, replaced water pump, replaced 4 port heater valve, (yes I know that had nothing to do with my problem, but thats the biggest piece of plastic junk I have ever seen and it developed a slight leak just like the previouse three in less than 1.5 years, so I replaced it again.) another reverse flush of radiator, replaced temp sensor, ( which by the way - for those of you who have not found it yet - is located on the rear of the engine close to firewall, very difficult to get hand or tools on but is barely possible with deepwell 3/4" socket, extention bar and swivel knuckle, first need to get a finger on the release clip of the electrical connector. Start by loosining the module harness to the left of the sensor which is mounted through the firewall itself and moving it to the side, allowing you more room to get your left hand in to touch the lil buger.)

    Okay, with all these items changednow, now I don't get the rapid needle, not yet anyway, but still overheating after about a 40 mile trip. resovour was filled to max line while cold but after heating up is above the inlet and outlet tubes that enter and exit the resovour. If I go out and restart the engine after letting it cool down completly, the excess water will re-enter the engine and normal level will resume. I can think of only three things I have not done, 1) is change the temp sending unit, 2) possibly air is locked somewhere in the sealed system, and 3) troubleshoot the cooling fan located in the radiator fan shroud. I don't know for sure wether the cooling fan is operating properly, when it should or if at all. I suspect this is where the problem may be but need advise on the troubleshooting process for this, I have a meter and know where the relay is, So if there is someone who can answer this for me, please don't hesitate to write the complete details for checking the relay and the circuit. I have a manual but it only mentions the electric cooling fan once to discuss how to remove it for when you replace the water pump, no diagnostic discussion whats soever. Please Help, I am running out of money and patients, if you can't help please send explosive C4 and a fuse.

    Thanks, John "The Parts Changer"

  • echo3321 Dec 11, 2008

    I have a 2003 Ford Ranger FX4, and the temp Gauge seems to be not moving much, but I am still getting heat. Is this a problem with the thermostat or with the sending unit for the gauge ?

  • Dragonfly8 Mar 24, 2009

    I'm, currently, having the same problem with my 2003 Ford Ranger. I have replaced the radiator, the clutch fan, (I don't have an electric fan), and I replaced the thermostat, (which includes the temp sensor). My mechanic did some troubleshooting and ruled out the heater coil, the head gasket, and the water pump. I even tried reseting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes, reconnecting it, and driving my truckfor 20 minutes without the check engine light coming on and without the temp gauge going all the way to hot. When I was driving to school, and got on the highway, and just as I was nearing my exit, the temp gauge went to hot and the check engine light came on. As soon as I put the heater on, it went back down to normal. I drove it for a few minutes that way, then turned the heater completely off, and rolled down my window. I can't run my a/c or my vent on cool, because that triggers the temp gauge to go hot and the check engine light to come on. It has been suggested that I have a faulty temp gauge or a possible faulty sending unit. The gasket in the coolant/anti-freeze cap may need replacing, so I'm going to do that next. The cheapest way to do that is by going to the nearest junk/salvage yard. Feel free to try the same thing. If all else fails, go to a reputable mechanic (that's an oxy moron, if you as me) and have them put your vehicle on the diagnostic machine. That should tell you exactly what is wrong with your vehicle, which is, probably, my next move, as well. I hope this helps and good luck. - Charlotte (Goodlettsville, TN)

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    when starting, its idiling at high rpms, no check engine lights on, my temp. guage dosent move, i can drive it, no bucking, or slipping out of gear. tp sensor already replaced. what could be the problem?

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    after engine rebuild, the temperature gauge does work and the temp light is also on. where is the sending or senor unit located?

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    Recently went to Ford dealer Service, they "reprogrammed two new keys. They mention that if I again have this totally dead start yet the electrical gauges , and lights work, that I may need a new PCM. Where is it located, and the approximate costs



1 Answer

Is the coolant flowing thru the radiator check bottom hose should be same temp as top hose if not could be clouged radiator or week water pump

Posted on Jul 27, 2008


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