My 1994 Tempo has 2.3 litre rebuilt engine with alight knock at, it disappears during acceleration.during road test engine will only accelerate to 60 m.p.h. While driving back home engine stopped,was able to return home,engine would not stay running.

get the car serviced, bad noises can be a sign of great danger to you and (well ALL)

• bad brakes
• bad front wheel bearings.
• bad suspension and related steering parts.

nobody in a silly text box can drive your car and for sure diagnose that at all, 3000+ parts there.
find a human to test it , hands on full inspection of your car.
do it now. be safe.

According to the above results, doubt the fuel pump problem,use BMW ICOM to check.The vehicle road test and read data.May the fuel pump is insufficient, resulting in high pressure fuel pressure is too low, resulting in engine fault light

ENGINE HESITATES WHILE ACCELERATION

LOSS OF ACCELERATION

It can be fuel pressure issue or it's the problem with accelerator pedal or its clogged filters causing there.

There are many other possibilities. I suggest you to go through the list of help links mentioned below, these will help you to confirm where the actual fault lies: -------

Jerks and Hesitates During Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/07/2004-dodge-town-country-jerks-and.html

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Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

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Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/headlights-flickering-and-car-hesitates.html

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How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

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How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

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2000 Toyota Avalon: Engine Lean Codes and Knock Sound on Acceleration?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-engine-lean-codes.html

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2004 Toyota Avensis: Acceleration And Deceleration makes noise on Front End?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2004-toyota-avensis-acceleration-and.html

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Wheel hop under hard acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/wheel-hop-under-hard-acceleration.html

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2009 Chevy impala accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

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Nissan Pathfinder stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

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Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

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These details will help.

Thanks.

sounds like a thrust bearing

there is a problem in your gear shifter located insde your transmission. have a transmission expert check your transmission, since this is not a DIY job.

This may apply. ...............................

Carry out the adaptation drive cycle road test:

Note: This process must be carried out in normal mode (not sports mode). On a flat road, the transmission fluid temperature must be above 60° C (140° f) and below 100° C (212° f) (vehicle at normal operating temperature will ensure that the transmission fluid temperature is above 60° C (140° f)).
9. Accelerate from rest with light throttle (do not exceed the upper rev limit in appendix 1). 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts must occur with engine speed between the following limits:.
Note: Do not move the accelerator pedal during shifts.

• 3.0L VIN ALL 1800 - 2000 rpm
• 4.2L N/A Prior VIN M96321 1450 - 1600 rpm
• 4.2L N/A From VIN M963221550 - 1700 rpm

10. Continue to accelerate gently to 50 mph (80 km/h) so that transmission shifts into 5th gear.
11. Go into overrun and let the transmission shift down into 4th gear without braking.
12. Brake gently to a standstill and hold footbrake on for at least 15 seconds.
13. This process should be carried out at least five times.

Page 2 of 3 Bulletin Number S307-17
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knocks when cold ( Start ), then sort of diminish or disappears when warming up ???

Knocking goes faster when accelerating when cold ???

If Yes, then Piston knocking on the wall of the cylinder . The sound disappears as the engine is getting warmer it dilates and the gap gets smaller.

If this just started,

1. Put quality oil & filter ( Mobile Full Synthetic Oil & Mobile Oil Filter or Purolator )

2. Do not put cleaning agents mixed with oil.

3. Personaly i've put "Restore" Engine Restorer & Lubricant in cars with more then 200 000 km and the results are amazing. But only "Restore". My Volvo is at close to 300 000 km, and it runs great. It's not a cleaning agent.

By experience if the knocking just started you can put an easy extra 100 000 km on the engine before a rebuilt. Quality Oil & let the engine warm up ( 3 mins ).

Your fuel pump or your catalytic is plugged. have it tested with a infrared gun it will tell you if the cat is bad and if it is replace it test the fuel pump for fuel rail pressure it should read 50 psi then hold to 20 psi for 1 minute.. Also check to see if the intake plate is dirty and if it is do a top engine clean, buy GM's top engine cleaner and run it threw the engine, if you have carbon buildup the compression and cause the car to run bad and the knock sensor will not be able to adjust time. I know this sounds silly but these three things will cause your problem and so will a bad fuel filter.

EGR MAYBE ?

Are u using the recommended fuel ? if so try running a couple of cans of fuel injection upper cylinder cleaner through the system with the next few tanks of gas, try LUCAS brand, it is among the best, the next step is to have the engine de-carboned by the dealer, this works very well, you can also remove an octane selection jumper, it retards the timing 2 degrees, that will most times stop the ping.