Question about 1988 Ford Tempo

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My 1994 Tempo has 2.3 litre rebuilt engine with alight knock at, it disappears during acceleration.during road test engine will only accelerate to 60 m.p.h. While driving back home engine stopped,was able to return home,engine would not stay running.

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Check Fly wheel pully. They are know for that.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

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Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Travel to continue rapid acceleration, the engine fault light


According to the above results, doubt the fuel pump problem,use BMW ICOM to check.The vehicle road test and read data.May the fuel pump is insufficient, resulting in high pressure fuel pressure is too low, resulting in engine fault light

Dec 07, 2013 | BMW X5 Series Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

The car will run fine for about 10 minutes then it will stop accelerating???


ENGINE HESITATES WHILE ACCELERATION

LOSS OF ACCELERATION


It can be fuel pressure issue or it's the problem with accelerator pedal or its clogged filters causing there.

There are many other possibilities. I suggest you to go through the list of help links mentioned below, these will help you to confirm where the actual fault lies: -------

Jerks and Hesitates During Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/07/2004-dodge-town-country-jerks-and.html

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Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

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Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/headlights-flickering-and-car-hesitates.html

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How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

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How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

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2000 Toyota Avalon: Engine Lean Codes and Knock Sound on Acceleration?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-engine-lean-codes.html

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2004 Toyota Avensis: Acceleration And Deceleration makes noise on Front End?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2004-toyota-avensis-acceleration-and.html

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Wheel hop under hard acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/wheel-hop-under-hard-acceleration.html

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2009 Chevy impala accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

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Nissan Pathfinder stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

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Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

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These details will help.

Thanks.

Nov 28, 2012 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

Knocks while accelerating


sounds like a thrust bearing

Aug 14, 2012 | 1989 GMC C2500

1 Answer

Toyota Camry 2l CSx flat roads ruining well. but when driving small gap or hill engine stop. at this time engine can start and accelerate 3000 RPM "N" position. But "D" position...


there is a problem in your gear shifter located insde your transmission. have a transmission expert check your transmission, since this is not a DIY job.

Aug 11, 2011 | 1988 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

DEFINITE LURCH IN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR,


This may apply. ...............................

Carry out the adaptation drive cycle road test:

Note: This process must be carried out in normal mode (not sports mode). On a flat road, the transmission fluid temperature must be above 60° C (140° f) and below 100° C (212° f) (vehicle at normal operating temperature will ensure that the transmission fluid temperature is above 60° C (140° f)).
9. Accelerate from rest with light throttle (do not exceed the upper rev limit in appendix 1). 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts must occur with engine speed between the following limits:.
Note: Do not move the accelerator pedal during shifts.

• 3.0L VIN ALL 1800 - 2000 rpm
• 4.2L N/A Prior VIN M96321 1450 - 1600 rpm
• 4.2L N/A From VIN M963221550 - 1700 rpm

10. Continue to accelerate gently to 50 mph (80 km/h) so that transmission shifts into 5th gear.
11. Go into overrun and let the transmission shift down into 4th gear without braking.
12. Brake gently to a standstill and hold footbrake on for at least 15 seconds.
13. This process should be carried out at least five times.

Page 2 of 3 Bulletin Number S307-17
________________________________________________________________________________

Jan 17, 2011 | Jaguar S-Type Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1994 Subaru Legacy and It has started making a "knocking sound". Cked the oil, it was OK


knocks when cold ( Start ), then sort of diminish or disappears when warming up ???

Knocking goes faster when accelerating when cold ???

If Yes, then Piston knocking on the wall of the cylinder . The sound disappears as the engine is getting warmer it dilates and the gap gets smaller.

If this just started,

1. Put quality oil & filter ( Mobile Full Synthetic Oil & Mobile Oil Filter or Purolator )

2. Do not put cleaning agents mixed with oil.

3. Personaly i've put "Restore" Engine Restorer & Lubricant in cars with more then 200 000 km and the results are amazing. But only "Restore". My Volvo is at close to 300 000 km, and it runs great. It's not a cleaning agent.

By experience if the knocking just started you can put an easy extra 100 000 km on the engine before a rebuilt. Quality Oil & let the engine warm up ( 3 mins ).


Nov 02, 2009 | 1997 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

1994 LT1 Engine "balks" under acceleration intermittently


Your fuel pump or your catalytic is plugged. have it tested with a infrared gun it will tell you if the cat is bad and if it is replace it test the fuel pump for fuel rail pressure it should read 50 psi then hold to 20 psi for 1 minute.. Also check to see if the intake plate is dirty and if it is do a top engine clean, buy GM's top engine cleaner and run it threw the engine, if you have carbon buildup the compression and cause the car to run bad and the knock sensor will not be able to adjust time. I know this sounds silly but these three things will cause your problem and so will a bad fuel filter.

Jul 22, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Engine knock 1999 ford crown vic


Are u using the recommended fuel ? if so try running a couple of cans of fuel injection upper cylinder cleaner through the system with the next few tanks of gas, try LUCAS brand, it is among the best, the next step is to have the engine de-carboned by the dealer, this works very well, you can also remove an octane selection jumper, it retards the timing 2 degrees, that will most times stop the ping.

Sep 10, 2008 | 1999 Ford Crown Victoria

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