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Brake pedal travels to floor with little ressistence.

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Check your brake pads and your fluid level in your master cylinder. If both of these are fine it might be that the rubber seals in the booster are nearly stuffed and need replaceing there should be four small seals and if they are leaking you will eventually loose braking capacity all together so please be careful. These seals are easy to change as the only thing holding the master cylinder rod in is a c pin. You will need to remove the resovior from the car and the rod is in the roundish cylinder under the resovior. C pin is on the firewall (closest to the driver) side

Posted on Jul 26, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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99 dakota with engine running brake pedal will travel to the floor with engine turned off pedal is hard 1 inch from top

Sounds like a bad brake booster.. It's the large can behind the master cylinder. The fact you have a hard pedal with engine off is the key here.

Dec 11, 2017 | 1999 Dodge Dakota

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When bleeding brakes the pedal doesn't go down after i open the bleeder screw but, fluid comes out?

It's bleeding by gravity. Here's what to do: you need a helper. Put a 2X4 or similar piece of wood or something under the brake pedal. Now have someone slowly pressing the pedal down, you open the bleed screw. When pedal hits bottom, have helper hold it there while you tighten bleeder. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of bleeder. Best practice is to put a small hose on bleed screw, and put end of hose into a small container partially filled with brake fluid, so the end of hose is submerged in fluid. When bleeder is opened, any trapped air in the system will come out as bubbles. No more bubbles, no more air in that part. Check brake reservoir, fill as needed, and move to next wheel. Never reuse brake fluid. Only brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid readily attracts moisture, and that is bad.

Why do I say a piece of wood under the pedal? This will protect your brake master cylinder from possibly being ruined while bleeding.
Were you to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, the push rod or piston in the master will travel beyond its normal movement. The inner seals then travel over a portion of the inner cylinder that never gets touched by the seals. Sometimes (often) a little layer of crud builds up there where the rod and seals never travel. Run the seal over that portion a few times and the seal will be ruined. Then you will need a new master cylinder.
Good luck. Oh, and if the master is ruined this way, you will know it quickly. Brake pedal won't hold, but will keep slowly going to the floor and little or no braking action.

Feb 02, 2014 | 1997 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

My 1998 ford taurus brake pedal goes straight to the floor .

Brake line busted somewhere? Is the linkage to the master cylinder intact? Master cylinder might have been installed incorrectly.

Dec 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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My brake pedal went to the floor, brought it in...They told me it was the Master Cylinder. They changed it and put in a brand new master cylinder but it still seems like the brake pedal goes further t

The extra brake travel can be;
1. air still in the brake lines and need bleeding
2. if there are brake drums on the rear they may be out of adjustment
3. if there are warped brake disc or caliper problems that will add to the brake travel

Dec 08, 2012 | 2002 Chevrolet Tracker

1 Answer

Brake pedal works at ferst then travels to the floor

Usually a sign of a failing master cylinder. One of the seals inside is allowing the fluid to bypass the piston.

Aug 27, 2012 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Excessive brake pedal travel and 'soft' brakes

the brakes have to be bleed you wrote that when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor that means the booster is working fine take it back and tell them you want the brakes bleed

Nov 14, 2008 | 2003 Honda Accord

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Braking system

That guy may be right. To check booster function, press firmly on the brake pedal with the engine off, then start the car. If the pedal sinks and inch or two, then the booster is probably OK.
If it was mine, I'd take it outside of town to somewhere with little or no traffic and test the brakes pretty brutally on a straight road with a loose grip on the steering wheel to check for directional problems.
Something that might have happened is that one wheel had a stuck wheel cylinder that suddenly got unstuck, causing a drop in pressure momentarily. I have also had the entire brake material on one pad separate from the backing plate which caused the same thing - at an intersection, with a very busy highway that wasn't crowded for once. I shot right across the intersection, drove home carefully and checked my shorts.
If you can't find anything yourself, I wouldn't hesitate to take it to an honest service shop (in the US, check local BBB) since that is something that shouldn't be put off. 

Oct 31, 2008 | 2000 Lincoln Continental

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