Thanks for your help, I have changed the fuel filter as it was pretty blocked, also replaced the injectors and the distributor cap, it runs really good now except when I take off from a start still misses a bit but does not miss at idle any more. I also bought a new battery.
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You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor. Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.
Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are: air filter motor oil motor oil filter breather filter fuel filter(s) fuel strainer PCV valve EGR valve spark plugs spark plug wires ECM or distributor cap & rotor cabin air filter transmission oil filter transmission oil engine coolant check all vacuum hoses and lines
Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:
Priority Action Part Type -- Cause 1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.
2 solutions: first, ignition control module is getting hot and shutting car down. 2nd; you didn't mention your dash(service soon) lights were on.<p>
You said the fuel filter was pretty clogged up. It's sounds like a bad case of EGS(ethanol gas syndrome). The ethanol;being a corn deritive;acts like corn liquor(which is what is is), and turns the fuel to goop, and adds large amounts of water through out all the systems.<p>
It clogs up the fuel lines,the injectors, and ruins fuel pumps. It also puts heavy carbon on egr valves, int. and exh. valves, and can ruin oxy sensors, and catalytic converters.<p>
Let's try the cheapest way first:Buy a can of SEAFOAM and Berkline 2+2 at your parts store. Take out the oxy sensor(s) and clean the ends using the 2+2 and re-install.
Then change out the fuel filter again. Pour the SF into a tank of PREMIUM(only) gas. Change the pcv valve. Then start vehicle and let idle for 3-5 min(even if you have to rev it up to do it to get the SF flowing through the system), and then drive it 10 hard miles.<p>
Replace that fuel filter, and then let it idle some more. Your car sounds like it is really messed up bad. Unless you take it to a garage that has a fuel system cleaner machine, this is the best way to do it.<p>
After this, add SF every 3-5000 miles to your tank. It will prevent this from happening again. Also; to be on the safe side. Have a PSI check on your fuel pump. This goop could have burnt it up. I hope this helps.
Very well possible that it is ignition related rather than fuel injectors. I would replace the distributor cap and rotor. I recently had on that was having pretty much the same problem as you are describing and that took care of it. I am presuming that it is not a diesel.
Hello, your problem appears to be the idle control motor located on the air intake manifold it is a small motor that goes bad quite often. Other items that can cause this is a bad /clogged air filter or a tune up (spark plugs and wires), or clogged fuel injectors. to clean the injectors you can buy a container of fuel system cleaner and pour it into the gas tank and as you drive it cleans the system.
Once the fuel system is cleaned via a tankful of cleaner & gas then the idle controller motor would be next on the list to be replaced.
the blinking CEL light is an indication of a miss-fire, run the code retrival test to find out what cylinder is the one missing, at your miles it could be almost anything from a low compression issue to a bad distributor cap, a fuel injector could be the problem, run the test and get back to me, Kragen and other chain parts stores will test the system for codes for FREE!
hi there i seems that you have replace alot of components after driving for a few days to let the ecm relearn with the new components . is it still missing at low speed ? seems you may have a spark plug thats not offering up its full potential please isolate what plug is the weak one by removing one spark plug wire from plug at a time to listen to the engine and see what plug is causing miss ok good luck you could replace all but this is an extra expense take a look
If your fuel filter was considerably blocked with debris, sand of foreign material, then it is highly possible that your fuel pump would also require looking over (check/replace). In most instances, there is a strainer (a filter of sort) incorporated into the pump. Should you decide to do this, it may also help if you add "fuel injector cleaner" to your tank so as to clean the other fuel lines.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.