My front wheel bearings do not last for longer than a month. I have changed the more than 5 times The car was in a front smash before I bought it I have replaced the right controll arm and the rihgt lower control arm I also use skf bearings but still the problem remains Please help as I seriously need help

Probably because there have not been enough repairs to suggest there was is manufacturing defect or a safety concern. The vehicle may have been abused, subjected to a large amount of road salt, partially submerged, etc. Also, these parts might just be worn out. Some cars are driven 4, 5 or more TIMES as far as other cars that are the same age. Further, cars driven at highway speeds most of the time will last longer than the same car driven over dirt roads.

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Have you checked you tire closely.Change it with the one on the other side and see if the sound transfer to that side.

its really not the aftermarket parts its just that all our replacement parts are made so cheap that they dont last long. i have changed bearing in alot of chevy cars including saturns you can buy a dealer wheel bearing it might last a while longer and then again it might not. 1 yr. warranty it usually all the bearings have on them. One thing you might want to do is have the alignment on your car checked i know if the car is out of alignment it can cause more strain on the bearings wearing them out before their time. hope this helped.

It's listed in your owner's manual. Schedule A is normal driving conditions.
SCHEDULE "A"
7,500 miles (12 000km) or at 6 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

15,000 miles (24 000km) or at 12 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

22,500 miles (36 000km) or at 18 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.

30,000 miles (48 000km) or at 24 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (4.7L).

37,500 miles (60 000km) or at 30 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill transfer case fluid.

45,000 miles (72 000km) or at 36 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Flush and replace engine coolant at 36 months, regardless of mileage.

52,500 miles (84 000km) or at 42 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if not done at 46 months.

60,000 miles (96 000km) or at 48 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace ignition cables (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect PCV valve, replace as necessary.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

67,500 miles (108 000km) or at 54 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.

75,000 miles (120 000km) or at 60 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill transfer case.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace if required.

82,500 miles (132 000km) or at 66 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.

90,000 miles (144 000km) or at 72 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

97,500 miles (156 000km) or at 78 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

105,000 miles (168 000km) or at 84 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000 miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace if required.

112,500 miles (181 000km) or at 90 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000 miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.

120,000 miles (192 000km) or at 96 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace ignition cables (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect PCV valve, replace as necessary.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

Thanks for using FixYa -a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

ok your problem is with the wheel the wheel speed sensor is reading a different speed prolly 1-2 mph difference so the dump valve in the abs is triggering i would change that wheel fast or youll be putting brake pads/shoes on that side very quickly. once you change the wheel pull the abs fuses or battery cable for 5 minutes then you should be good to go.as far as the spongyness pedal it will go away soon as the wheel is changed. if you still have the abs and brake light on you will need to pull some codes for us to help you some more.you 15" wheel is spinning faster then the 16" wheel the faster you go the bigger the difference will be between the 2.hope to hear good new back from ya.

My guess is the original shim that came with the factory bearing and hub assembly was discarded and never installed on the new bearing (That does not come with a shim) causing the new bearing to fail.

No this ia a sealed bering. Its much easier to just change the bearing and replace the hub all in on shot. It also last alot longer. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA

Would suggest getting the rotors machined rather than replaced. After the Thickness variation occurs ,then the metal has already taken it's "set" and will stay true longer.
Rotors are cheap now,but go "out of round quickly"

It gets louder the faster you go and has gotten worse at lower speeds over the past month. Its a front wheel drive SUV and I had the bearings changed out last month. It is loud as all get out