How do i remove the rear drum on a 1986 chevy p/u with 8-lug 14-bolt rear

1. Raise vehicle
2. Support on jack stand
3. Remove lug nuts
4. Remove wheel
5. Remove bolts holding caliper
6. Remove calipers
7. Remove brake pads
8. Push piston into caliper
9. Inspection rotor for damage if damaged replace
10. Install new pads
11a. Replace caliper on rotor
11 b. Replace bolts in caliper and tighten
12. Bleed brakes
13. Replace wheel
14. Replace lug nuts
15. Lower vehicle
16. Tighten lug nuts
17. Test drive vehicle

are you sure that the hub is separate to to the drum
mostly with fully floating axles the hub and drum are one piece
that means that you have to remove the axle ( 8 studs )
pull then axle
then undo the axle nuts in the hub and then the hub and drum will come off

Loosen the rear lug nuts, jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, remove the brake drums, remove the brake shoes and hardware, remove the 4 bolts holding the hubs in. Bolt in the new hubs, reassemble the brake shoes and hard ware, put the brake drums on, put the wheels on and snug the lug nuts, lower the car, tighten the lug nuts.

How to Replace a Brake Drum
(DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 2.1 hours)

Parts:
1. Brake Drum

Tools:
1. Jack Stand Set
2. Mallet Hammer
3. Flat Head Screwdriver
4. Floor Jack
5. Combination Wrench Set
6. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
7. Tire Iron
8. Socket Set

Supplies:
1. Brake Cleaner

Steps:
Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean when jacked up.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Remove the rear wheel hub caps (if necessary) to gain access to the lug nuts. Using a tire iron or lug nut wrench, break loose the rear wheel lug nuts but do not remove.
o Tip: Turn the lug nuts counter clockwise to loosen. If the lug nuts are too tight, use a breaker to gain more leverage.

Step 3 Using a floor jack, lift up the rear of the vehicle.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 4 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 5 Remove the lug nuts. Remove the rear wheels.

Step 6 Remove the brake drum by pulling it outwards.
o Tip: Make sure the parking brake is released before removing the brake drum.

Step 7 Visually inspect the brake drum for cracking, scoring or grooving. If any of these conditions are found, the brake drum will need to be resurfaced or replaced.

Step 8 Visually inspect the brake shoe linings and drum brake components for damage or wear.

Step 9 Replace worn components if necessary.

Step 10 Install the new or resurfaced brake drum.

Step 11 Reinstall the wheel. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specification.

Step 12 Remove the rubber grommet from the backing plate. Insert a screw driver into the slot and turn the star wheel adjuster to adjust the brake shoes out.
o Tip: Turn the star wheel adjuster until you feel a slight drag while spinning the wheel.

Step 13 Road test the vehicle.

Hope this help.

Disc brakes on rear when OEM is drum may cause over breaking of rear axle when bed is empty on less than desire traction conditions are present.

Removing: Loosen lug nuts (7/8") and spindle nut (36mm). Lift truck. Remove lug nuts, spindle nut, and wheel. Remove 2 bolts (3/8" allen) holding calipers on. Hold the calipers up with a bungee cord. I attached it to the sheet metal of the fender. Remove 4 bolts (15mm) from rear of hubs. Once these bolts are removed you can move the shield that is in-between the hub and the axle(I think). You are moving it to get access to the allen bolt that holds the ABS sensor on. Once you move the shield then you can look through the top of the rotor through the slots and see the sensor line and bolt. I don't remember what size allen this one took. You do need a long allen wrench though. Disconnect sensing line from hub. Now the rotor is ready to come off. I had to use a pry bar to remove this gently working each side until it popped off. Once the rotor is removed, you need to hammer out the lug bolts. Then you have to tap the rotor away from the hub. This took a little work. Then check each of the lug bolts by screwing the lug nuts on them. They should go all the way down by hand. If they don't - go buy new bolts $2 a piece. Installing: Position new rotor on hub. Get some dry ice from your local grocery store and freeze the bolts for about 10 minutes. Pull one bolt out of the ice at a time and install on the rotor and tighten the bolt with the lug nut. I put the nuts on upside down and used a 7/8" wrench and mallet to tap on the wrench to get these as tight as possible. You also have to tap on the head of the bolt and repeat the wrench tapping. Do this for each bolt pulling one out of the ice at a time. You do not have to get the rotor and hub completely together but get it as close together as possible. Once all of the lug bolts are in it is time to put the rotor on the truck. Ensure the shield is on the spindle and install the rotor, again, this takes some work. Once the rotor is on, connect the ABS sensing line. Line up the shield and install 4 bolts to rear of hub. You can align these by moving the hub, not the rotor. Install the caliper, remember to put brake grease on these 2 bolts. You may have to compress the caliper slightly. To do this remove the brake pad that has the circular part of the caliper touching it. Open the brake fill cap on the master cylinder. Use a C-clamp to compress the circular part. Reinstall the brake pad and brake fill cap. Install the caliper. Install the wheel and tighten lug nuts. I used a cheater bar on my tire iron and ensured that the lug bolts were flush with the head of the lug nuts. Then I removed the wheel to verify that the gap between the rotor and the hub was gone. Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts, and tighten spindle nut. Once both brakes have been replaced, start up the truck and pump the brakes several times till you feel some tension when pressing them.

You have to remove the tire/wheel assy. remove the brake drum, you will see the spindle with the bolts there. punch out the broken bolts install new buy pushing thru the hole.Find some regular nuts that will fit over the stud, put your new nuts on and tighten up till flush in back.

2003 dodge neon sxt

Here are the steps;
) Park on a level surface. safety
) Block all the other wheels. safety
) Put the vehicle gearshift in PARK. safety
) Release the handbrakes.
) Slightly break the rear wheel lug nuts seal while on ground. Just loosen do not remove.
) Jack up the rear wheel.
) Check to see the wheel will turn so you know the brake shoes are not binding against the drum.
) Now you can remove the lug nuts and wheel.
) Remove the drum. Some times the drum has frozen on with rust. You may have to use a hammer and hit along the drum near the outer edges to break it free.

help is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Drum Removal

1. Remove the rear wheel and the tire assembly. Refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Retract the brake shoes and loosen the brake adjuster screw.

1. Remove the brake drum.

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May require big hammer to loosen drum from axle flange. Hit between the the lugs, not on them.

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#10 is access plug to back off adjusting wheel.


Item Part Number Description 1 2261 Rear wheel cylinder 2 — Dust boot (part of 2128) 3 2197 Wheel cylinder piston (part of 2261) 4 — Cup (part of 2128) 5 2204 Wheel cylinder piston cup spring (part of 2128) 6 — Wheel cylinder housing (part of 2261) 7 — Brake shoe hold-down pin 8 — Access hole (part of 2212) 9 — Rear brake bleeder screw (part of 2261) 10 — Access hole plug 11 — Rear wheel cylinder bolt 12 2212 Rear brake backing plate 13 — Rear brake backing plate bolts 14 2N790 Parking brake lever clip 15 — Spring washer 16 — Secondary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 17 — Brake shoe hold-down spring (part of 2B514) 18 — Lower retracting spring (part of 2B514) 19 2A637 Parking brake lever 20 — Parking brake lever pin 21 2A177 Brake shoe adjusting lever 22 — Adjuster lever pin (part of 2A177) 23 — Primary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 24 — Upper retracting spring (part of 2B514) 25 2041 Brake adjuster screw

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Shoes Removal

Take a picture and remember how each part goes and attaches

1. Remove the brake drum, refer to Drum in this section.

1. Remove the upper retracting spring.

1. Remove the lower retracting spring.

1. Remove the self-adjuster.

1. Remove the hold-down springs.

1. Remove the parking brake lever clip and the parking brake lever.

Easy. Take wheel and tire off, and remove the brake drum, if it has drum brakes. With a hammer, hit the broken stud until it pops out. Slide the new stud into the hole, and, using some thick washers, screw the lugnut onto the new stud, over the washers. Tighten it until the stud is pulled all of the way in. Easier done with an air wrench, however.