Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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Hard brake pedal....booster tested and replaced, pads and master cylinder replaced and vacuum is as it should be. hard only upon startup then normal... second problem, may be related, is very poor accleration..

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  • foxcitiesgal Jan 28, 2009

    Same Problem, only with a 2005 Nissan Altima. Break pedal hard only on startup, but mine is intermittent - not every morning. Scary when you pull out of parking spot & almost hit another car because breaks don't respond can't stop as fast as you would like.
    Shop says they can't find any problems.

  • Anonymous Feb 01, 2009

    same problem only seem to hapen on very cold days. Any help?

  • bodabaga1 Apr 24, 2009

    Ok well thats all in good but I have the same problem with a 91 ford explorer with no ABS brakes and its not just in the morning its all the time... Lil help plz

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The anti-lock brakes are tied into the front wheel bearings. If a wheel bearing is going bad, the computer may think the wheel is skidding which activates the a.b.s. I had the same issue on my truck. Different type of vehicle but same type of issue. Not a pleasant experience when you can't stop.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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My brake pedal looses pressure and bleeds off. No loss of brake fluid. Not sure if it is a vacuum problem or a master-cylinder problem. How do I trouble shoot it?


easy remove vacuum to booster and plug it now go and step on brakes and hold them down hard .if it fades away its the master cylinder .you can do the same test with car off and not touching the booster , if pedal falls its the master cylinder

Oct 27, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

Brakes are hard to depress causing stopping problem


1: inspect all brake linings first.
no pulling left or right braking?
the car has 100% full manual brakes. if the brake booster fails.
(its only and assist !!! for 50lb small folks)
so does it? it takes more pedal pressure but has 100% full braking.
this is no accident its by design.
make sure none of the brake shoes/pads are soaked in DoT3/4 fluid
or grease or gear oil.
and no brake fluid leaks end to end, this is really #1 on all cars.
look, then look again. even behind and in front of the master cylinder.
look at tires (inside for fluid leaks>)
2: do the booster test. did the vacuum hose to it fall off?
or got pinched, or ?

google brake booster test
if ABS system. get it all checked,
if ABS get the ABS scanned.

if you cant stop correctly,,,,???? , dont drive.
get it fixed.

May 06, 2014 | 1999 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Abs brake system


Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem

Apr 11, 2014 | Hyundai Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vw golf 2000 the brake pedal is to soft when you apply it and seems like is not going to stop but it does, what is the problem?


Not sure if you have done all this.



BRAKE BOOSTER INSPECTION

Functional test:
1. With the engine stopped, Depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty
2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or the check valve is faulty

Leak Test:
1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty
2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

Check valve test:
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be a vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.

END TEST

Nov 06, 2012 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When truck is off,pedal is hard. after starting, pedal goes to floor. replaced master cylinder,bled brakes. changed front and rear pads.


I would inspect the brake booster for vacuum leak. When the booster is not working you get a hard pedal, yet when you start the vehicle the pedal will hit the floor because of the damaged diaphram inside the brake booster.

Oct 21, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

I replaced the master cylinder and brake pads and my brakes still dont work on my 1998 chrysler sebring


Have you tested your brake booster and your calipers?Your brake booster doesn't make any noise, and it doesn't use any electricity or gasoline, but it ensures that you can stop your car with only a light touch of the brake pedal. Things weren't always like that: before the invention of the vacuum brake booster, cars still stopped. It's just that you had to really stomp on the brake pedal. The modern brake booster is an ingenious device that operates using something that your engine generates whenever it's running: vacuum. The brake booster takes engine vacuum via a rubber hose that runs from the intake manifold, and the brake booster uses that vacuum to amplify the pressure you put on the pedal. A light application of the brakes is translated by the brake booster into significantly more pressure on the brake master cylinder, ensuring that your car stops quickly. So what happens to the brake booster if your car stalls, resulting in a loss of engine vacuum? Early designers realized that gas engines were hardly foolproof, so they designed a little check valve into the brake booster circuit. The brake booster stores enough vacuum to provide full boost for two or three pedal applications even after the engine dies. The check valve on the brake booster is what keeps that vacuum from leaking out. And speaking of leaks, that's the reason most brake booster units have to be replaced. As your brake booster ages, the rubber seals and diaphragms that hold the vacuum tend to wear out and crack. If the brake booster can't hold vacuum (despite the check valve's best efforts), its time is up and you'll need a new or remanufactured new brake booster.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Ford focas all disks and pads /rear shoes are new changed disks /pads today but pedal still goes to floor pedal is hard until you start engine


The problem is likely either the brake booster which is vacuum powered or the brake master cylinder -- brake booster would be leaking air, master cylinder would be leaking fluid by the O-ring on the piston (internally "leaking by").

This sounds more like a booster failure since the pedal gets soft when engine is started. But probably a good idea to replace both at the same time.

More info, please let me know.

Charlie

Oct 02, 2009 | 2001 Ford Focus

2 Answers

It is very hard to push on the brake pedal


vaccum brake booster may be in op or vaccum is to low.

Jun 08, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

Hard brake pedal hear air leaking when pedal pushed


When you press on the brake? Have your brake vacuum assist checked. It,s that bigspaceship looking thing between the brake master cylinder an firewall. good luck and be safe.

May 25, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

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