IVE CHANGED MY AXLES LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE AND THE HUB WITH TH BEARING BUT THE MACHANIC IS TELLING ME TO CHANGE MY ABS ON THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE BUT MY LIGHTS NOT ON

id say you have a defective speed sensor. ive seen this with new but cheap parts

check the front suspension bushes lower contol arm and radius bushes use a big screw driver to lever the bushes around to check for play

Your not even telling us what the problem is

I assume you had a bad wheel hub bearing assy
& changed it

Now you either got the wrong one or you want
to change the other one

If one is noisy & failed, the other won't be far behind,
so do both

None of that has anything to do with removing a fuse

vibration that slows or stops when turning is an indication of a bad hub bearing

Front hub bearing, remove tire, remove caliper and caliper holding bracket, you do not have to remove brake caliper from brake hose, just set it aside, if 4X4 remove front axle nut that goes through center of rotor, also remove brake rotor, disconnect elec, A.B.S connector, remove three bolts on back side of hub bearing, remove hub bearing, some times you will need to knock hub bearing out with a hammer.Reverse to install new hub bearing.

most probably your left front wheel bearing...the speed sensor for the Abs is contained within the wheel bearing so it generally flickers\comes on when driving as there is play within the bearing and the readings are erratic from the play within the bearing.....jack up the car and check for side to side,up and down play with the tire...if you find play\movement then that is the most probable culprit.....the bearing is self contained ,not greasable and is replaced as a unit,it comes with the abs sensor within it....takes about an hour to replace and the bearing assemble costs about 70-200$,,,shop around it;ll save you money ive learned

awd disable is usually a $200 tube type sensor in the rear diff. abs light is usually front hub bearing

You can do it yourself just take your time:
To change front wheel bearing.
1. Jack car up support with jack stands
2. take tire off
3. take caliper and brakes off
4. take rotor off
5. unbolt axle shaft nut at bearing hub
6. use a 3 lb slug with a block of wood
7. place wood on axle shaft and knock it in
8. back side 3 10mm bolts unbolt
9. front side have to pry off bearing hub Assembly only beacuse has dirt in knuckle hole.
10. clean hub knuckle and reinstall.
Its really not that hard or you could have them done for $900 and up. (I have changed alot of wheel bearing assemblies )Whats your e-mail I can send you a diagram if you want.

what about the drivers side? and does it have a removeable wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub? if so, maybe broken exciter ring on axle shaft on one of the front axles

That's indicative of a wheel bearing, which is why you were told to change that out. However, it's also possible that the carrier bearings in the differential (where the drive axles attach) have gone bad. That happened to me on my 300ZX several years ago, and I had to replace the diff bearings. I would have them checked out somewhere other than a dealer (you'll probably get a better price from an independent shop).

As a sidenote, to be sure it wasn't a wheel bearing, if you hear it quiet down in a turn one way but get louder in a turn the opposite way, it's likely the wheel bearing. If you turn left at speed and it gets louder, then it's the right bearing (since you're loading up that side of the car). If it gets quieter in a right turn, it's the right side (you're unloading that side of the car and not putting as much weight on it, so it doesn't drag as badly). See if you get that symptom just to be sure that the wrong side front wheel bearing wasn't changed.