Question about Honda Accord

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Crank pulley difficult to remove is there a special tool needed

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  • poorman2 Aug 31, 2008

    the crankshaft pully off of a 1993 honda 2.2 litre motor is very hard to do.there are three ways to get it off.

    1. buy special tool from any supplier just look online or call around for about $50.

    2. remove oil pan and shove a 2 x 4 (wood) between the crankshaft and block wall, then use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar to remove crankshaft pully nut.

    3. fill compression cylinder with water or oil and re-insert spark plugs( because liquids do not compress very easily) and use an impact gun to loosen nut.

    Sticking a screwdriver or a 100mm x 6mm bolt into lock hole as described in most manuals does not work and will result in misalignment of the crankshaft or damage to teeth on the flywheel.

  • therads Mar 09, 2009

    Have same problem on a 95 Odyssey 2.2L. Even purchased a 780ft lb air wrench with no success.



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I would never fill a cylinder with fluid or a rope and pull on the crank bolt, you could damage your engine in ways that would cost a lot more than a timing belt job at the dealers. Make or buy the tool.

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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Water in an engine????

Try this - remove the plugs and put the #1 cylinder at BDC. Then feed a length of NYLON rope into the cylinder. It will hold the crankshaft still while you break the nut loose.

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

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Pay 50$ for the tool or go to your buddys shop and make the damb tool yourself like i did

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

Do you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft as well?
Thanks in advance.

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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2004 Pilot timing belt replacement

(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Part List :
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
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-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar

-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.

-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.

-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).

-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)

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-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).

-Remove the crankshaft pulley.

-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).

-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).

-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).

-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).

-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).

-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).

-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).

-Remove the timing belt.

-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).

-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)

-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.

-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

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