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I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Explain fire ? Ignition spark , engine turning over when key is moved to the start position . It depends on the make vehicle . Back in the old days voltage from the ignition switch when placed in the start position would go through the park neutral switch to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . Causing the starter to spin the engine over . Then the ignition system would have the job of firing the spark plugs causing the air fuel mixture to ignite causing the engine to start an run . Do you have a no- crank no start condition . Sometimes I don't know what you rookies mean , I have been fixing vehicles for over thirty years an you rookies don't talk the same automotive language automotive Technicians talk.
Hi, this is often caused by a dead spot on the starter commutator. I recommend you remove the starter and have it tested at your local parts chain. If you are handy, you may try taking it apart to see if cleaning the commutator and brushes will clear up the problem. Sometimes it's dirt and sometimes it's broken wires to the armature coils. A simpler test to do is the next time you're having trouble getting the starter to turn, try smacking it on the side with a hammer. That will usually get it to move off the dead spot to start and thereby verify the starter dead spot is the problem.
sometimes when one replaces the ignition a small plastic part falls from the new ignition causing it not to fully engage-for fun turn key with a liitle firmness all the way to sart-sometimes with added pressure it engages-orthewise remove ignition for examination
Yes, there is a starter relay which is most likely the culprit.
Trace the red battery cable, you'll find the relay at the end of it. Disconnect the starter cable and the battery cable, but not the ignition switch leads, from the relay. Then test for continuity through the switch side of the relay when the ignition is turned to start.
Check connections at battery cables,should be tight & not be able to move cables.Check for corrosion at battery terminals.Also I have seen problems at the inside fuse block where a terminal burns causing similar concerns as yours.Hope this helps
This Too Is A Starter Problem, If >>The Battery Terminals Are Clean <<And >>The Starter Terminals Are Clean and TIGHT <<,I Would Wait Till It Wont Start Again and SMACK THE STARTER 2-3 times with a HAMMER then Try Starting it. If It Starts then it is The Starter. I KNOW this seems A Little UNCONVENTIONAL BUT For 30 Years This Technique Has Diagnosed HUNDREDS of STARTER Problems for me.