My '03 525i has just passed 50,000 miles - it drives beautifully....BUT...
The alarm goes off every few minutes once the door is locked (which
activates the alarm) and then by the am commute, the car battery is
drained requiring a service call or towing.
The above problem had occurred when the car had 18,000 miles on it.
Because the car was covered under manufacturer warranty, the BMW
dealership addressed the problem by keeping the car for one week,
running diagnostics and replacing sensors then returning the car
indicating it was fixed. That weekend the problem recoccured, the alarm
went off all night, the battery was dead, the car had to be towed and
the car was in the BMW dealership for one further week again for
diagnostics and sensor replacements. After two weeks in the shop, I
thought the problem was fixed.
Now, at 50,000 miles, the alarm is going again. And, the icing on the
cake, a service person offered his opinion that fading and flashing
electronic readouts on the dashboad were indicative of pending
electronic failure that, in his opinion, would cause an odomoter
failure, then an odomoter replacement and TMU (true mileage unknown
after the odomoter replacement even if done by BMW).
Has any one ever heard of recurring electrical problems after they have
been "fixed" in a BMW dealership? Is this service tech's opinion on or
off the mark? And, what suggestions do you have to resolve the above.
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Had a new Lincoln Mark 7, battery was bad from beginning and would trigger alarm when it shorted at random. In your case, outside radio waves may trigger alarm if shielding was removed from alarm antenna.
I have the same problem on my 2004 crossfire :(
the alarm goes off out of the no where, even when i drive, the only way that i way able to turn it off was by taking one of the wires off the battery, then stops for a while but after a couple of day it happends again.
How can i reset the alarm system?
I am not a Lexus expert, instead I am a Ford expert. However, I expeienced this type of problem once on a Ford and it ended up being the ignition switch, not the key cylinder but the electrical part. The ignition switch handles all the current flow for everthing that comes on when the key is turned to "ON".
WHen the current flow got heavy with the a/c blower on high, it overheated the switch. Ended up replacing the switch and installing a 12 gauge wire on the switch to act as a heat sink for the wire that feeds the blower motor.
Motors, rear defroster, horns and cig lighter take a lot of current to run.
If the car starts after charging but will not idle, I would suspect the alternator is defective. The alternator is fitted with a diode pack (all to do with the electrics, valve bocking AC but allowing DC to pass) this is the the part that fails.
It allows a correct current to pass to the battery (DC only)
If the car starts after charging and runs for a few miles before stopping and the evidence is a dead battery - It will definately be the alternator.
Hope this helps
You need to set all the pressures to 35 psi. first then drive for approx.1/4 mile. If this doesn't work to reset the light (keep in mind the code itself will still be stored even though the light goes off) you will need to take it to your Nissan Dealer to have it scanned as there may be a malfunction with the sensor. If faulty and you are under 36k miles then it should be covered under your factory warranty. Hope this helps.
the owner probably rerouted the fuel line because like my 92 chrysler lebaron v6 3.0 the fuel lines keep seeming to come off and the clamps always break. I have replaced the clamps 5 times in a month and replaced filters 2 times in 2 months. The only thing i could think of is that your fuel is being cut off possibly because there is no filter to clean all the junk out. Try putting a fuel filter on and see if that will work
Have had two intrepids that each lasted to almost 200000 miles - even with teenagers driving the last few years. The gear shifting thing came up on both of them. It has always been hit or miss as to when this happens. the only solutions we used were add transmission fluid, if necessary, and otherwise change the trans fluid if its been 50,000 miles since the last change. Also, letting it sit a few minutes (to cool?) does make a difference.
In over 5 years and 50,000 miles of driving, these are the only things that ever went wrong on the car: * Main electrical relay went out at 95,000 miles -- quick repair, $100 Acura part. * Replaced radiator and ball joints at 120,000 miles -- cost about $500 for both. * Sunroof stopped working at 130,000 miles, never did fix that. * Instrument cluster stopped working, replaced them at 140,000 miles with a good used one, about $200 including labor. The Sterling 825/827 Series is one of the most underrated and misunderstood cars ever made. I had this car for 5 years, and it was solid, classy and dependable. On the outside it just kind of looks like a car -- nothing all that unusual. It's inside that this car is really special. The interior is absolutely beautiful, all Connolly leather, Wilton carpeting and real wood trim. These are all the same materials used by Rolls Royce. All the lines in the interior are crisp and tasteful, a beautiful blend of modern and classic. And the 8-speaker sound system is the best in any car I've ever owned (and I've owned many). You can tell that this car cost a lot to build. Since the engine, transmission, body frame, and most of the drivetrain components are identical to the Acura Legend, many parts are easy to find, and you can take it to a knowledgeable Honda/Acura mechanic in many cases.