Question about 2005 Ford Fusion

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Turbo fault i lost all power of my car and thought it was my turbo. i removed my turbo and noticed the propellor at the exhaust side was detached.what can cause this and should i look at anything else that could cause this.would it be safe to replace it.any informattion would be appreciated to explain why this happened

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This turbo faliure is common, the nut that holds the compressor wheel on the inlet side can undo itself and spit the exhaust wheel and shaft out the other side(into the exhaust) It can be cause by running more boost than the turbo can handle or from compressor surge(Thats when you take your foot off the gas and the throttle shuts, the compressed air shoots back the other way back to the turbo trying to escape and causes the compressor wheel to stop and goes the opposite way a blow off valve will reduce this.) Replacing the turbo will fix this problem. i hope this helped.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have just had air mass sensor fitted, swirl pipes removed,and intake manifold de-coked, 250 miles later tubo has failed i e,blades come loose, is there a connection


The cause of damage There are several main causes of turbocharger damage:
Find your cause by checking what was your Turbo's condition.

Oil/lubrication

To work effectively, a turbo needs a constant flow of clean oil, and to keep your turbo in top condition, you need to ensure that you change the oil and oil filter regularly.
This helps to prevent the build up of carbon deposits and contaminants that can cause abrasive damage to the inside of your turbocharger, reducing its efficiency and causing irreparable damage over time. Fully synthetic oil produces the least amount of carbon.

Foreign objects

Sometimes, foreign objects like broken engine components, dust particles, small stones, dirt and leaves can enter your turbocharger, either via the compressor inlet or the turbine inlet.
These can then cause impact damage and abrasion to the compressor wheels and turbine blades, which will start to reduce the efficiency of the turbo. To prevent this happening, you need to ensure that your air filter is serviced regularly, and that you check your turbo for loose connections or debris.

Over-speeding

A turbocharger works by increasing the air pressure in an engine (check out our beginners FAQ for further info).
If there are any leaks, cracks or poor seals between the compressor and the engine, the turbo will have to work much harder than it should have to increase this pressure. This will reduce the efficiency and boost delivered by the turbo.

Other causes

In addition to the causes listed above, excessive exhaust gas temps (EGT's), moisture ingress, wear and tear, fuel intake systems, the wastegate and the exhaust system can also cause damage to your turbocharger.
The warning signs There are several ways that your vehicle will let you know that its turbo is in need of maintenance or repairs:
Check engine warning lights - On most modern cars, the computer diagnostics will pick up turbo faults and the check engine light will come on. Of course, the check engine light doesn't just cover turbo failure, and you will need to do some further checks to see what kind of engine problem you have.
The boost gauge - Some turbocharged vehicles are fitted with a boost gauge, which lets you know how much boost your turbo is producing (you can also fit one to your car if desired). If your boost gauge isn't going up as much as it used to, then there is a good chance your turbo is in need of repair.
Power loss - If you notice that your turbocharged vehicle is accelerating more slowly than usual, or isn't capable of reaching the speeds it once could, this may be a sign that your turbo is failing.
A smoking exhaust - If the turbo housing has cracked, or the internal seals have blown, oil will start to leak into your exhaust system. As this burns off, it produces a distinctive blue/grey smoke, which will probably become more apparent as the engine revs increase just following an idle situation.
A loud whining noise - Often, a failing turbocharger will make a loud, distinctive noise when under boost - a bit like a dentist's drill or police siren if compressor wheel damaged. If you start to hear this noise from your engine, it's definitely time to have it checked out!
The next steps - checking your turbo If you notice any of the warning signs, then get your turbo checked as soon as possible. Your turbocharger isn't going to repair itself, and the longer you leave it, the worse (and more expensive) the problem will get!
At AET, we're always happy to help with the cost-effective diagnosis and repairs on a full range of turbochargers. Alternatively, if you're mechanically minded and aren't afraid of looking under the bonnet, you can check for a range of faults yourself by inspecting the turbo.
Essentially, you are looking for signs of oil, excessive movement, impact damage and contact between the compressor wheel and housing.
Before you start the process, we recommend checking the air filter, exhaust system, breather system and fuel system on your vehicle are all working properly, as these can cause similar symptoms to turbo failure.
Once you've done that, you'll need to remove the air filter to gain access to the turbo. First, examine the exterior, checking for any signs of oil or loose connections.
Then, check the compressor wheel - it should be clean, without any dings, chips, or signs corrosive pitting. Look out for evidence of excessive movement, ensuring that the wheel can't touch the housing, and check to see whether the turbocharger is able to rotate freely.
I you are feeling particularly ambitious; you can also check the exhaust side of the turbo. First, remove the exhaust pipe all the way to the turbo, so you can see the turbine wheel. This should look clean, with no carbon build up, scale or oil along the surface, and the blades should be free from cracks, wear and damage.

Jan 13, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Coming home from work lost down to 40 2012 1.6 diesel focus is it the turbo although where was no smoke coming from exhaust


check for a blown turbo intercooler hose or split in the intercooler
have the fault codes read as it may not be the turbo at all

Nov 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you know for shaw if you'r turbo's blown


The turbo will burn oil like crazy,the front propellor of the turbo you could turn it at all it would be frozed up,and yes no power

Nov 11, 2012 | Subaru Impreza Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Exhaust giving off white smoke when parked up with engine running audi a4


White smoke is caused by engine oil being burnt. If your vehicle is turbo charged then it is most likely the turbo bushes that are worn, allowing oil to escape into the exhaust system. This can also be caused by worn piston rings but is unlikely on a vehicle of this age unless it has overheated badly in the past. To check turbo, remove main intake pipe from turbo. Check for excessive movement on impeller shaft in turbo by moving it up and down. To check piston rings carry out a compression test or if you have the equipment a cylinder leakage test will give you a better indication of cylinder condition. If the Turbo is at fault it will need to be reconditioned or replaced. Check oil feed pipe to turbo for blockage or restriction [common fault].

Jun 28, 2010 | 2002 Audi A4

1 Answer

How to removing turbo from 1997 f350


remove the air intake hose. diconnect the oil feed tube to the turbe discnnect the band on the exhaust side of the turbo. you may or may not have a cold wether aid it a arm under the exhaust side of the turbo. has a cer clip holding it ot the turbo. There are four nuts holding the turbo on.You are taking the turbo off as one unit the intake side and the exhaust.

Feb 25, 2010 | 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

1 Answer

1999 Vauxhall Frontera 2.2 dth ltd. Living in France


take the inter cooler pipe of turbo and try to move the fan or bolt inside the turbo, if you can then theres a problem with the bearing probably oil starvation parts of the fan will have been sucked through the engine so this could cause the smoke problem if the plastic is stuck in the exhaust valve check all oil lines and air lines, try getting some one to hold rag over exhaust pipe and look in engine bay if you can see smoke/exhaust gases coming from turbo unit then theres a leak somewhere,
its a complicated problem and without being there i cant really help anymore than that, sorry jezza

Feb 12, 2010 | 1999 GMC Safari

1 Answer

Hi, I have an BMW X5 56 plate 3.0diesel. 41k miles. I have noticed that there appears to smoke coming from the exhaust upon acceleration. This is happening all of the time. Also, yesterday I lost power (as...


Have a go at the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV). its located under the engine cover towards the rear of the engine in an odd shaped black plastic box alongside the fuel injectors, Dont pay BMW the Big dollars. Buy a filter for $50 AuD on Ebay or the whole unit for $120 AuD. You have to remove the engine covers to do it but thats not so hard really, just a bit involved and takes 10 mins to remove the engine cover. The actual filter is a throw away job, but the whole PCV assembly is just a degrease and clean. Its held in place by four small hex headed bolts, when you lift it you'll find the small can shaped filter pinned underneath. Swap the filter. its VERY unlikely to be your turbo at 41,000m.
The PCV is a known issue that causes smoking and even power loss, BMW actually did a retrofit kit PCV for use in cold climates., Are you in somewhere cold? and another possibility is not using the correct 'Winter diesel' in a cold spot. Very common fault for X5 owners going up to Thredbo or Perisher snowfields in Australia for the first time!
Happy Motoring

Sep 28, 2009 | 2005 BMW X5

1 Answer

How to remove the alternator


please rate, thx

2.0L SPI engine (not ZETEC).

Generator Removal
  1. Remove the cooling fan motor and shroud. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
  1. Remove the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  1. Remove the power steering pipe support brackets.
  1. Remove the exhaust manifold heatshield.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Disconnect the generator electrical connectors.
  1. Detach the generator.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Detach the generator.
    1. Remove the clip.
    1. Detach the generator.
  1. Remove the generator.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ZETEC

Generator —2.0L Zetec-E Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  1. Remove the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  1. Remove the generator electrical connector cover.
  1. Disconnect the generator electrical connectors.
  1. Remove the coolant expansion tank bolt.
  1. Detach the coolant expansion tank from the clip and secure to one side.
  1. Detach the power steering reservoir and secure to one side.
  1. Detach the engine wiring loom bracket and secure to one side.
  1. Detach the ground cable.
  1. Detach the evaporative emission canister purge valve and secure to one side.
  1. Remove the bolt.
  1. NOTE: The bolt must be fully disengaged from the bracket although it is not possible to remove the bolt at this stage.
    Unscrew the bolt fully.
  1. Remove the generator.

Sep 26, 2009 | 2003 Ford Focus

2 Answers

I have a 320d of 2000 which has done 104 000k. The turbo boost used to come in at about 2000rpm and again at just over 3000rpm. The 2000 boost does not seem as powerful as it was and the 3000 boost is no...


dear friend:a turbo can only boost the air that it receives,if the turbo is not damaged it should work properly,the turbo depends on the exhaust gasses for the speed that it turns which then boosts the air that it receives,that means that any restrictions on either side of theturbo will influens the preformance,check the air filter and ducting pipes.

Sep 19, 2009 | 1999 BMW 323 Series

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