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I had my radiator fail last week. I have always had a little knock in the engine, but now I have big knocking sound. I had the head pressure test in each tested to 150 PSI. I have replaced the radiator and still have the knock sound. Any suggestion on what this might be, possible valves? Thank you in advance..

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Sounds like you are due for an engine overhaul, you have a connecting rod knocking if it varies with engine speed (unloaded) or you have a main bearing knocking if it varies with load and rpm. Let me know if the knock is down low or closer to the head..I doubt it valves...you have an engine that needs an overhaul.

Bulldog

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

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What causes knocking noise on the engine?


If its knocking with low or no oil pressure, then your bottom end has failed at some point, and the engine hasn't got much longer to live. If it runs fine and has oil pressure, chances are its the top end, these engine use solid lifters and may need adjustment, but from my experience they are always a little noisy even when the lash is correctly adjusted.

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350 Chevy knock might be a blown rod or a lifter stuck


Knocks in the engine can be defined by the frequency that it happens . If it is a cam follower it would be a constant knock and there would be more than one as if the cam follower or cam lobes are failing . A heavy knock can be a big end or a main bearing failing. Remove the plug wire and if it is a big end the sound will be a lot less as there is no combustion pressure pushing down on the crank pin. When you have got the rod you think it is then remove the plug as well and there will be virtually no noise when running. If the oil pressure is good at idle then the noise may be a broken ring or cracked piston. All produce a knock in an engine A stuck lifter should be holding open a valve so you will have a miss as well as the knock.

Mar 18, 2014 | 1985 GMC Jimmy

3 Answers

Rods are knocking,


To put it in layman's terms it means tat the big end bearings are shot and it will be new bearings and crank shaft grind which leads to engine rebuild which leads to lots of dollars. I do not consider it a stupid question at all as it is a common statement by "shade tree mechanics" looking to make a fast buck at your expense.. It is best if you have a series of tests done to determine the condition of the engine first. Find yourself an accredited ,reputable mechanic and have the following tests done.1--- have a compression test (dry then wet) done to determine the condition of the rings and bores. IT will also find if there are cracks and head gasket problems( minimum psi should be around 120psi). 2--- have the oil pressure tested with a mechanical gauge to find the working oil pressure ( minimum idle pressure around 20psi) reduce the engine idle to as slow as possible and listen to any knocks in the motor. Pull the plug lead of each cylinder in turn and if the knock subsides it can be worn gudgeon (wrist pins) pins in the pistons. When you have the results from all these tests you will have a good guide as to rebuild, replace with a reconditioned engine or get a good unit from the wreckers.

Jan 12, 2014 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

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My son thinks his a mechanic experimenting ,place a fan as big as palm size in the air induction hose ,he start the escalade and test drive ,he heard a grinding and then knocking sound in the engine, then...


could be the oil pump has failed grinding sound then knocking sound could also be the timing is out or failing that something forren has got into the engine. check all these out and don't run the engine you are making the engine worse. if pump for the oil has gone and the engine has been run can mean a new engine. if timing belt has moved could be a new head will be needed. and pistons. failed oil pump does more damage in the long run as the hole engine needs oil.

Oct 11, 2013 | 2007 Cadillac Escalade Two-Wheel Drive

2 Answers

Engine nock., drop in oil pressure.. severe over heating possible cracked head but no sighns of warping or wear.


Sounds like a Warped Head. Is there oil at the inside top of the radiator? Try adding AlumaSeal aluminum powder to the radiator coolant through the radiator lid, not the overflow tank. If that helps it's a heat-sensitive warped head. When it gets warm, it warps. Keep it from getting to that temperature with the alumaseal. Remove the oil from the radiator and fill it with standard mix of anti-freeze and water. Carry an extra couple gallons of the mixture with you. Check it each week, remove the oil out of the top of the radiator.

Oct 04, 2013 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Replaced the head on the motor...250000 miles on my daughter's 1999 Grand Cherokee..now the mechanic says that he hears a knocking under the motor says she should just get a new car. Could the knocking be...


Lets review.
Replacing the head at 250k was probably not a good investment.
My advice has always been, if you need engine work at 200k or more, its time for another vehicle because the rest of the parts are still worn out. The normal life of a car or truck in the USA is 200k.

Usually a knocking sound means a rod or main bearing has failed. Which would require an engine overhaul to fix.
Black oil has nothing to do with the pump. The oil should be changed at 500 miles to remove any debris caused by replacing the head. That may fix the problem if there is junk floating around in the oil pan.
If the oil pump has failed, you would have very low oil pressure which would show up on a gauge.
It could cost you more to fix the knock that it did to replace the head.

Jul 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Horrible engine knock in 1995 toyota celica


Check for oil pressure.Check the compression in each cylinder.
Yank the valve cover to see if the camshaft is actually turning during cranking mode,only.
Disable the fuel pump or disable the spark(fuel disable preferred)
The engine may have "eaten" something it shouldn't.
A valve may be broken off inside the cylinder head.
Usually an exhaust valve.

Feb 21, 2013 | 1995 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

P0325


DTC P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction
A knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor wasn't operating properly, so that it was always indicating a knock, the engine computer's response may have been to change the ignition timing on your engine. Knock sensors generally bolt into or thread into the engine block. This P0325 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly. Other knock sensor related DTC codes include P0330.

This diagnostic DTC is used to check the PCM and its Knock Sensor (KS) module. The PCM has stored a calibrated time that it considers to be a valid spark knock duration. If the PCM sees a knock event that was longer in duration than the acceptable time, the PCM sets DTC P0325.

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
Test Conditions
- Test continuously.
- Ignition voltage 11 volts or more.

Failure Condition: The knock sensor reports a knock event longer than 99.99 milliseconds for 3 seconds continuously.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
- Ignition control uses the 87 octane spark advance.
- The PCM will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) after two consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and fails.
- The PCM will record operating conditions at the time the DTC sets. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records.
- A first failure of this DTC will store in Last Test Failed but not History.

CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC
- The PCM will turn the MIL OFF after three consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
- A Last Test Failed DTC will clear when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
- A History DTC will clear after forty consecutive warm-up cycles with no failures of any diagnostic test.
- PCM battery voltage is interrupted.
- Using a Scan tool.


You are positive you are not hearing any spark knock, ping, engine noise etc... if not than yes, the sensor is the most common by % of times. Check THIS LINK.

Removal Procedure
Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Engine / Intake Manifold / Service and Repair.
Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connector.
Remove the knock sensor.

Installation Procedure
Install the knock sensor. Tighten the knock sensor to 19 Nm (14 lb ft).
Connect the knock sensor electrical connector.
Reinstall the intake manifold.


hope this helps.

Jul 26, 2011 | 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

1 Answer

1993 jeep cherokee 4.0 HP I am having a knocking sound during acceleration under load. Also with the a/c on during throdling up the engine quickley is also knocks. Whats up is this detination, What...


hi i think my last post was lost for some reason., but here it is again, the knocking sound you can hear is probably the big end bearings worn, these are the shells that go between the conrod and the crank shaft , it sounds like they have worn either by lack of oil at some time, or just through age and use, this is also normally accompanied by low oil pressure light coming on but not always, 2 options you have are, another engine, or repair the bearings , but this will depend on how bad the crank has been damaged by the worn bearings..hope this helps please vote and rate thanks

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4 Answers

Engine noise and fails to start


check your oil. If it is frothy or gray then you have water in it and that means you have a blown head gasket. If there is oil in the radiator then the same holds true.

The nocking could be from a failed oil pump as well. If the oil pump fails then the car will not start. You have to remove the oil pan to replace the pump.

May 06, 2010 | 1992 Ford Taurus

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