Question about 1986 Volvo DL

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1988 VOLVO 240 SEDAN

Blower fan wont come on. Using a test light I confirmed fan speed switch is good,then I light tested 2 wires coming from the base of the barrel shaped blower housing, got light on red wire.am i on the right track.desparately need ac for daughters car in AZ.
Thx!

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I had the same problem.The factory original motors have bushes that ware down the blower motor needs to be replaced. It was at the time I replaced mine a factory part. Yes it is time consuming
and a lot of patients because of where it is located behind the dash, but well worth it that is a very
good & sound car.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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YOU GOT DIAGNOSE.NEXT STEP IS REPLACE BLOWER MOTOR. THOSE CARS ARE NOTORIOUS OF BURNING THE BLOWER MOTOR.BIG JOB ALSO!!

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Air and heat blower will not come on. 1998 sonoma 2.2l


start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.

Feb 06, 2013 | 1998 GMC Sonoma

Tip

Blower motor does not work?


Blower motor problems are a pretty common topic. This is a basic guide on how to diagnose the problem and will work for most vehicles.

The diagram is generic and loosely based on GM's setup and more specifically a Silverado. Most manufacturers have a similar setup and the only major differences would be a ground side control (instead of the switch supplying power to the resistor it would be grounding the power from the resistor if this is the case you test light would need to be connected to power to test the switch) and late model Chrysler minivans (they use a module that looks for a difference in a/c voltage from the switch)

If the blower works on high only than likely the resistor assembly is the culprit since power to the blower essentially bypasses all of the resistors and/or the resistor assembly entirely. The reason why none off the other speeds will work is that the resistor or the circuit for the speed four setting has burned out. The lower the setting the more resistance you need to drop the voltage to the blower. The first speed setting requires all four resistors to drop the voltage enough to turn the blower at its slowest speed. Speed 2 needs to turn the blower a little faster so it uses three resistors. Speed 3 uses two resistors and speed 4 uses one.

In some cases the fan will work on high and speed setting 4. The likely cause for this is the speed 3 resistor or circuit has burned out. Speed 4 still works because it doesn't use the lower speeds resistors to control the speed of the blower. If the speed 2 resistor burns out than speed 1 and 2 will not work but 3, 4 and high will continue to work. If the speed 1 resistor burns out than speeds 2, 3, 4, and high will continue to work.

This leads us to how do we know if its the resistor or the switch or the blower. If the blower works on high than we know the blower works. That leaves us with either the switch or the resistor assembly (there are many other possibilities) which can be easily tested with a test light (or a voltmeter if you choose) The first thing to do is locate the resistor assemble. They can be behind the glove box, under the dash close to the blower motor or under the hood, again usually close to the blower motor. It will typically have 5 to six wires going to it. We'll start by unplugging the connector, turning the key on and connecting your test light to ground.

1.Turn the switch to high and backprobe all the wires. Two of them should illuminate the test light. In the diagram below this would be wire E & F. If you don't have a diagram then hold the test light on one of the two wires and move the switch to another speed setting. the wire that continuously illuminates the test light regardless of the switch position will be the constant power for high blower speed and will not need to be rechecked in the following steps.

2. Turn the switch to the next lowest setting. Backprobe the remaining wires to see if one of them illuminates the test light. Repeat until you have checked all of the speed settings.

3. If the test light has illuminated a different wire for each setting then we can reasonably assume that the switch is functioning as intended and the source of the problem is the blower resistor.

If you find one or more settings (but not all the settings) on the switch that does not illuminate the test light on any wire than we can reasonably assume that the switch has failed.

There are a few other things that can cause blower motors not to work as intended. The switch or the resistor assembly are the two most common problems.

342697e.jpg

on Oct 26, 2010 | Chevrolet Venture Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I would like to know how I can fix the heater in a 89 gmc k1500 with a 350 engine and no air. I tried a new heater motor and still not working. The Fuse is also good.


This is a blower motor not working tip I posted a little while back.

Blower motor problems are a pretty common topic. This is a basic guide on how to diagnose the problem and will work for most vehicles.

The diagram is generic and loosely based on GM's setup and more specifically a Silverado. Most manufacturers have a similar setup and the only major differences would be a ground side control (instead of the switch supplying power to the resistor it would be grounding the power from the resistor if this is the case you test light would need to be connected to power to test the switch) and late model Chrysler minivans (they use a module that looks for a difference in a/c voltage from the switch)

If the blower works on high only than likely the resistor assembly is the culprit since power to the blower essentially bypasses all of the resistors and/or the resistor assembly entirely. The reason why none off the other speeds will work is that the resistor or the circuit for the speed four setting has burned out. The lower the setting the more resistance you need to drop the voltage to the blower. The first speed setting requires all four resistors to drop the voltage enough to turn the blower at its slowest speed. Speed 2 needs to turn the blower a little faster so it uses three resistors. Speed 3 uses two resistors and speed 4 uses one.

In some cases the fan will work on high and speed setting 4. The likely cause for this is the speed 3 resistor or circuit has burned out. Speed 4 still works because it doesn't use the lower speeds resistors to control the speed of the blower. If the speed 2 resistor burns out than speed 1 and 2 will not work but 3, 4 and high will continue to work. If the speed 1 resistor burns out than speeds 2, 3, 4, and high will continue to work.

This leads us to how do we know if its the resistor or the switch or the blower. If the blower works on high than we know the blower works. That leaves us with either the switch or the resistor assembly (there are many other possibilities) which can be easily tested with a test light (or a voltmeter if you choose) The first thing to do is locate the resistor assemble. They can be behind the glove box, under the dash close to the blower motor or under the hood, again usually close to the blower motor. It will typically have 5 to six wires going to it. We'll start by unplugging the connector, turning the key on and connecting your test light to ground.

1.Turn the switch to high and backprobe all the wires. Two of them should illuminate the test light. In the diagram below this would be wire E & F. If you don't have a diagram then hold the test light on one of the two wires and move the switch to another speed setting. the wire that continuously illuminates the test light regardless of the switch position will be the constant power for high blower speed and will not need to be rechecked in the following steps.

2. Turn the switch to the next lowest setting. Backprobe the remaining wires to see if one of them illuminates the test light. Repeat until you have checked all of the speed settings.

3. If the test light has illuminated a different wire for each setting then we can reasonably assume that the switch is functioning as intended and the source of the problem is the blower resistor.

If you find one or more settings (but not all the settings) on the switch that does not illuminate the test light on any wire than we can reasonably assume that the switch has failed.

There are a few other things that can cause blower motors not to work as intended. The switch or the resistor assembly are the two most common problems.

342697e.jpg

Nov 09, 2010 | 1989 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

Im trying to troubleshoot a non-funtioning blower


To test the blower motor run a jumper wire from the hot side directly to the hot terminal on the battery. If the motor is in good condition it should come on. If it comes on that may indicate a bad resistor pack. Since the resistor is an electrical part which is self-contained would probably be easier to change than to test. You should do the resistor pack first (before the switch) because it is the easier of the two to change out. If replacing the resistor pack does not fix the problem then you will need to replace the switch.

Jul 23, 2010 | 2000 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

A-C blower is not working.


Check for power with a test light at blower wiring plug when fan switch is in on postion, If there is power then it may be a worn fan brush, try tapping lightly at base of blower with hammer to free a sticky brush. If there is no power at wiring then it's more than likely fan speed switch.

Apr 20, 2010 | 2000 Lincoln LS

1 Answer

Glove box light on 1988 240 Volvo does not work


Test the switch and replace it if broken.

Mar 27, 2010 | 1988 Volvo 240

4 Answers

Starter will not turn over. already replaced starter (tested good)


Make sure you have a good connection between your starter and battery cable to the battery. Also check your ground connection from the battery. Your battery is the source of power that kicks the starter to turn. So just follow the battery cables to be sure they are clean and have a good connection.

Jan 23, 2010 | 1988 Volvo 240

3 Answers

1988 VOLVO 240 RR BRAKE LIGHT & BACK UP LIGHTS


I have a 1990dl 240 volvo. Tell me if there is a brake lights relay in this model.
My brake lights don't work, fuse is ok, brake switch is ok, bulbs are ok.
thanks

Sep 11, 2009 | 1988 Volvo 240

3 Answers

Electric fan wont come onto my 1992 volvo 240


JUMPER THE FAN MOTOR WITH A 12 VOLT DC SOURCE (LAMP CORD WORKS GREAT FOR THIS), IF IT RUNS REPLACE THE BLOWER MOTOR, IF IT DOESN'T REPLACE THE BLOWER MOTOR SPEED CONTROL MODULE/RESISTOR

Jul 06, 2009 | 1992 Volvo 940

1 Answer

Reverse lights 89 volvo 240 sedan


Hi,
Your brief description doesn't state whether auto/manual? I would be looking at the reverse light switch on the gearbox.
Take the clip off and bridge the connection with a paper clip or similar, keep it away from the vehicle as you will blow a fuse, turn ignition on and bingo, hopefully Blackpool illuminations back of your 240?
Good Luck!
Please remember to rate my effort.
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0) {#><U.K.

Jan 19, 2009 | 1991 Volvo 240

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