Question about Ford Escort

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Car won't start when you turn the key you get dash lights and buzzers but it doesn't turn over. you can pop start it though.

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  • lsb1875 Jul 22, 2008

    We had the battery checked it's good, the starter was put on today brand new. The trick to all this is we've had the car 6 months no problem when we got it but then it started this where you turn the key and it wouldn't turn over but had dash lights. so we started popping the clutch to start it, then after about a month of that it all of a sudden started with the key again, now 3 months later we're having to pop the clutch again.

  • saliez Jul 24, 2008

    I bought the car 3 weeks ago. It did not want to start (made a zing sound) cause the cylinoid packed up so I replace it, only to find that the ameture was damaged. I replace that to. The car started OK. Now 4 days later it does not want to start but this time I don't even get the starter to swing. I only get a clicking sound when I turn the key.

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Check the battery and the starter. it may need new plugs, plug wires or maybe a new cap and rotor if its old enough

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

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The dash lights coming on doesn't mean your battery is strong enough to turn the car over. That being said, I would lean towards the starter also. I would just have the battery chkd out before you go replacing other things just to be sure. Good luck to you.

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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1 Answer

I have a 89 ford f150. put the key in, turn the key,, dash lights come on, but it will not turn over and start. I replaced the ignition switch but that wasnt it. any suggestions


Your battery may have a dead cell. It will still have 12+ volts and will run your dash lights and buzzer, but when a real load is requested, it doesn't have it to offer. The problem is quite common. The only way to know is to use a battery tester.
Don

Jul 04, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

1 Answer

I put the key in the ignition and turn it over to start and it makes a buzzing sound like a buzzer


Its the buzzer for the key switch so you don't forget to take the key out and its likely a minor problem with the key switch it self . The buzzer can be unpluged listen for the noise when looking under the dash board and unplug it . As long as your not haveing other issues with the key switch and the vehicle is running OK then you realy don't need the buzzer and it won't effect anything else on the vehicle just don't forget your keys good luck with it

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Want start.Battery new,starter,alternator and cables checked.Fuses checked.When key is turned lights on dash work and door buzzer works and when you try to start all I hear is a click under the left corner...


You say the battery is new and that the rest checked but wasn't replaced. Seems like your either not getting enough voltage to the starter or the starter solenoid has failed, in which case, you'll have to replace the starter.
Check the ground strap too. Thats a ground connection that goes from the engine block to the frame of the car. You also say you checked all the cables, but did you replace them? Cables can be corroded inside the plastic cover and may not be able to carry enough current even though they may look ok from the outside. It takes alot more voltage to kick in the starter motor than it does to light up the dash.

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Have you checked that the headlight switch is in the right position? Are the headlights or parking lights still on when the key is removed?

If so, then rotate the lamp switch to the correct position and the buzzer will go off. Headlights and parking lights are not controlled through the key circuits.

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