The simplest way to find out wether it is the shocks (one may have seized causing the hight difference) is to remove them, it is simple enough to do. one bolt top and bottom of each. once removed you should be able to pus and pull the two ends. there will be an even resistance, if it is jammed solid you have found your problem. if not you will have to look at your torsion beams... good luck
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check the vans rear shock absorbers if they are faulty the car can exhibit this type of behaviour and braking will be less efficient. Also tyre wear will be affected to.
I am not a shock absorber expert but had recently my four shock absorbers replaced as the fluid had ruptured in the front shockers and the rear mounts for the rear shockers were corroded and unsafe. (shock absorber expert at repair place mentioned the symptoms you are describing as a rear shock problem or the rear leaf springs are faulty)
With those miles (150000) on the van I would have also replaced all 4 springs and all 4 shocks., It is stupid to put new shocks on the front and leave worn out shocks on the rear . - The rear shock absorbers should also be replaced with new items. (Springs are inexpensive to replace so I am surprised you did not renew them because it should be done. The old ones will have sagged significantly by now.)
get underneath its so easy to do on this vehicle ,jack it up it has two 13 or 15 mm headed bolts that go through the bell housing ,think they were nuts and bolts if i remember rightly ,the starter is on the gearbox side of the bellhousing ,and the bolts come in from the front ,cannot remember because as you will appreciate a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since the early 70s ,my camper van is a 81 first of the water cooled models and its been at least 4 yrs since i changed the engine.or even looked at it ,its in the garage next to the jag waiting for my retirement
There is a small round metal wire that comes out of the front center of the seat. If you sit on the seat, while depressing the wire down, and pivot using your body weight, the seat should turn. Sometimes spraying the black seat mount is necessary to lube it. You may have to remove the seat if rusty or very dirty. To do that, slide the seat as far forward as possible, then lift the small metal lever on the left side of the seat, to release the lock on the track allowing the seat to move forward off the track. Note: both the passenger and drivers seats should turn on your model.
There are access panel for these vehicles all the way toward the back just ahead of the transmission on the under side of the vehicle (floor board center remove the bolts to expose the shift rod mechanisms often time s they are broken or worn inspect and repair, there is also a mechanism up front you must remove the rubber boot to expose the hold down bolts for the shifter mechanism you may be able to readjust after greasing the mechanism to regain function, either way these are not easy mechanisms to work on be sure to scribe around the perimeter location of mounting plate on the front shifter before unbolting just as a reference point.
The battery should be under the front passenger seat. Move the seat forward as far as it will go, and you'll see a metal plate (may be under the carpet), which comes off with four Phillips screws. To actually get the battery out, you will need to remove the seat.