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Sounds like you may have an air bubble in the master cylinder. The most effective way to deal with that is getting a master cylinder bleeder kit from your local parts store - make sure it has the metal clips that will hold the hoses in the master cylinder. Install line adapters after removing brake lines from the master. top up the fluid in the master and install hose clips, making sure the end of the hoses are in the brake fluid at least 1 inch. Slowly pump the brake pedal, making sure you bottom out the pedal and release SLOWLY so you don\'t suck air into the hoses - have a helper watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and the bubble production. The fluid level should not sink during this procedure - if it does, then you may have a faulty master cylinder. Pump until you have no more bubbles. If the bubbles don\'t stop, then you have a faulty master cylinder.
Let's look at your slave cylinder and your master cylinder. Under the hood of your car are two master cylinders, and physically, they are close together. They are found right in front of you as you drive the car, except they are under the hood and about chest high. My 1990 has them right along side one another. The brake master cylinder reservoir is about 4 inches in diameter, the clutch master cylinder reservoir is about 3 inches in diameter. Both of them take quality brake fluid. Sounds like your clutch master cylinder is dry of brake fluid. It would be nice if all you had to do was to add brake fluid to the "fill" line, but then you'd have air in that system, and it would need to be "bled" to work. If you do find the brake fluid low, very likely the slave cylinder needs replacement, as your car is the right age to need this. Be blessed.
The main reason the TCS light is on is because there is a problem with the main brake system. The traction control system uses the hydraulic brakes to help keep the car on the road in a skid or other event. If the main brake system is faulty, the TCS can't do its job. The hydraulic brake system may be working fine in your case, but the TCS does not know that. I wonder if that low fluid switch can be bought separately ??
It can be one of two things a bad master cylinder which will still show full of fluid or a bad wheel cylinder. To check the wheel cylinders sometimes all you have to do is get on your knees and look at the back side of the tires. if you see a liquid coming from the rim of the tire to the outside of the tire that's the wheel cylinder that is leaking. beings that your master cylinder is staying full then its a faulty master cylinder. There are rubber and neoprene seals inside the master cylinder that go bad causing you to pump the brakes. If it were a wheel cylinder you would have to keep filling the master cylinder with fluid.
Yes and No...Replacing the master cylinder is a good idea, however, giving the vehicle that much pressure with old lines attached may blow out the old rusted lines. If you are going to replace the master cylinder, you may just want to replace the brake lines as well.
Your problem look like if there is still some air in the calipper cylinder.
I suggest you loosen the brake hose at the calliper and completely retract the piston.
Then thighen back the hose and perform a normal bleeding procedure of the front brake lines.
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/detail.htm Will tell you if you have any recalls. I'm assuming, when you say brake pump, you mean new master cylinder. Most of the time, when a brake feels "soft", it has pressure problems in the line. It sounds like the power booster unit could be broken, or you could be leaking pressure at your wheels. Also on a similar note, I once witnessed a very spongy brake brake, that would not become more "firm" with bleeding. The person working on it was very confused as to why, and upon further inspection, I discovered a small clamp, he had forgotten to take back off the line.