I have a 1992 Montero and have replaced the coil, rotor, transistor, plugs, wires. I checked all of the fuse with and Ohm meter and they are all good. The battery is in good and it cranks without hesitation. But I am not getting any spark to the plugs. Where do I turn next?
Have you verified that the engine IS turning the distributor by removing the distributor cap, and cranking the engine, seeing if the rotor that's mounted on the dist. shaft is rotating around? If it isn't turning while you crank the engine, then your timing belt may have broken.
Mitsubishi uses a rubber timing belt on this engine with a 60k replacement interval usually.
Remember, no rotation of the distributor shaft which is driven off the camshaft means no spark since the sensor inside the dist. won't function from a lack of movement.
If you DO have the rotor turning with a cranking engine, then make sure the coil is getting power. You may need to do an ohm check of the wires from the distributor to the engine ecu if nothing easy pops up during diagnoses.
Also make sure the coil and the ignition module that's mounted VERY near it are getting a good ground from the bracket that they're bolted to on top of the engine. Unbolt the bracket and use a wire brush to clean the underside of the bracket and the portion of the intake manifold if you're not sure. It may not help, but it's cheap insurance down the road since neglected grounds are the rule, not the exception on aging vehicles.
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did you replace the rotor as well? also did you test all the plugs? if so you may havea bad wire if youve tested all of them it may be a problem with the ignition coil if you have an ohm meter you can test the wires and the coil what kind of vehicle is it i may be able to find at what ohm you wires are good or bad and where you can check the coil as well
Needs to check and make sure timing belt is not broken, if that checks good, more then likely it's going to be the ignition control module, sit in the distributor, also have him ohm ignition coil. but more then likely if timing belt is good, ignition module.
check with inline spark tester between the coil and the plug wires for fire. also check the sparkplugs for a fouled out condition. if all checks out then check the coil with ohm meter. unplug the ignition wire connector from the coil. there should be 3 terminals on the coil. connect the ohm meter to the center pin and the other to either outside pin to check primary resistance. then using the ohm meter check the secondary resistance by connecting one end of ohm meter one tower on coil and the other end of ohm meter across to the opposite side of coil to check resistance. primary resistance--0.95- 1.20 ohms secondary resistance-- 11,300 to 13,300 ohms. if it does not check out then replace the coil.
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle