The 3/8 hose broke going to the turbo ( on top) engine over heated and worped the head We replaced the head gasket, checked and planed the head. when we started it up it still blows hot air /steam out the over flow bottle. we removed the thermostate the engine is cold and the hot water flys out the raditor cap hot. could this be the turbo blowing exaust into the cooling system. no water in oil.
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if you have a blown head gasket in the engine this could cause the pressure to increase on the cooling system., A radiator specialist can put a radiator cap on the radiator that has a pressure guage attached to it to test this . A compression test on the engine would also rule out or confirm a head gasket or warped or cracked engine head. Coolant may be getting into cylinder 3 via a blown head gasket and cause a mis fire or ignition failure in the cyclinder of the engine. You may see steam coming out exhaust pipe also !
thet moment stop your engine and grab top radiator hose, feel the heat then grab lower radiator hose they have to be hot same heat. Top hose very hot is radiator blockage, Or lower hose very hot thermostat damage ,for test thermostat tide whith a string or wire have one glass cold water and juck boiling water deep thermostat in and you have to see the opening if is not then you have to replace it. Don ever youse radiator flush with the thermostat on. Blown head gasket means continual air bubble when you remove radiator cap special white froth,check for loose or damage hose and heter leaks when cooling system is under pressure.check low and high rpm exhaust fumes.
If the cooling system had enough pressure to blow off the top radiator hose, you may have a cracked head or block. I would take the thermostat out and run the engine without it to see how hot it gets and how much pressure it builds up. Be sure and check the radiator cap too.
Sounds like air in cooling system. Coolant comes through to back of glove box area for your heat supply.
Have you noticed less available heat than normal?
Check the coolant level in radiator, not just the top up bottle. DO THIS WHEN ENGINE IS COLD as hot system is under pressure.
Possibility of head gasket leak suppling gases to coolant system. IF so may be producing some persistant heavy white steamy exhaust, though not necessarily.
Topping up coolant will (should) make noise go away at least temporarily. You should look to see if any obvious leaks or wet spots at hose clamps and heater hose connections.
When engine is cold, open Radiator cap, look down (flash light helps?) to see fluid level, should be full to top.
If not, top up with correct coolant mix, leaving cap off, start motor and allow to idle till warm. If level drops top off some more. Watch the fluid as it flows past cap opening. a few bubbles for a few mins may be normal, but continous stream of bubbles indicate head gasket leak. Turn on the heat in car to full, (not the fan, just heat level) gently rev the engine and top up fluid at same time, (2 people) replace cap. Done. If there are no apparent problems.
If noise returns or does not go away, you'll need a professional inspection.
First make sure the cooling system is full. This might require letting it cool and filling it more than once though the main raditor cap. Then it needs looked over for leaks. If it won;t stay full it'll overheat. The hose from the recovery tank to the raditor connection at the cap is a problem spot and it the raditor can't **** the coolant from the tank back into the raditor the engine will soon get low. If these things are alright then you neeed to watch it heat up, and see what's happening. The engine should worm up and as it does the upper raditor hose will warm and but hot but not right away. The side of the raditor should start to warm up soon after that, Touching the raditor it should warm up evenly from top to bottom if it doesn;t it's clogged. If the hose and engine get hot and the pressure inside the hoses rise but the raditor says cool then the therostate is sticking and needs to be changed. If the whole radidor gets hot till everythings too hot and the fan does'nt come on then you need to test the fan and it's fuses and connections. The cooling fan will be comanded on if you unplug the coolant temperture senser that's pluged into the side of the therosate hoseing as it's where the upper hose connects to the engine. If the fan seems to be coming on and hot air is coming off the back of the fan and it's still getting too hot and you've decided that the whole radidor is getting evenly hot then the engine may have an issue. Exhaust clogged up ( cat canvertor, muffer bent pipes) The check engine light might be on and the reasons it's on need to be examinded.
1. See if simply adding coolant fixes it.
2. Try replacing the thermostat and the radiator cap. One way to check the thermostat is to start the engine and feel the upper radiator hose. The hose should not feel uncomfortably hot until the engine has warmed-up and the thermostat opens. If the hose does not get hot, it means the thermostat is not opening.
2. Look for antifreeze leaks, inspect the radiator, water pump and hoses.
3. If there are no leaks, and the above steps don't correct the problem, you might have a blown head gasket.
It could be due to age. Split hoses aren't uncommon.
However, it could be due to either a radiator blockage or a cylinder head problem - which is allowing exhaust gases to find their way into the cooling system via a leaking head gasket. When this happens the cooling system becomes pressurised by the exhaust gases.
To check if your radiator is blocked, run the engine until it is hot. The coolant goes into the radiator via the top hose and into the engine through the bottom hose.
Carefully feel the top and bottom hose. If the bottom hose feels much cooler than the top hose, then that indicates a radiator blockage. If the bottom hose feels 'flat' and 'squashed' that is another indicator - though it also can point to head gasket problems.
To check if there are head gasket problems, first check the oil on the dipstick. If it is a 'creamy sludge' then that indicates coolant has found its way into the lubricating system via a leaking head gasket.
Also remove the cap from the raditor expansion tank (where you fill it with coolant/water). Is there any sign of oil/sludge in the expansion tank? Another sign of head gasket problems.
With a COLD engine, remove the cap from the radiator expansion tank and then fire the engine up. Watch the coolant as the engine ticks over ... at first bubbles will appear as air in the coolant escapes. The bubbles should stop after a few moments as the engine warms. If the bubbles continue -or there is 'violent bubbling' that's teling you there is a head gasket problem.
I presume that your car hasn't been overheating or 'running rough' at times, as you haven't mentioned that. Overheating and 'running rough' can also be symptoms of head gasket problems.
All being well .. no radiator blockage or apparent head gasket problems, it is more than likely that the hose burst due to age/mileage.
Your thermostat may be staying closed, if the top coolant hose becomes hot after the engine running for a while, then thermostat is opening ok. Next check to see if the bottom hose going to the rad is getting warm. If its staying cold then you may have a problem with the water pump not circulating the water around the cooling system. If thats ok check the rad cap is sealing ok. when the engine gets up to normal engine temperture remove the reservoir top filling cap which has a rubber pipe going to the thermostat housing. with the engine running there should be no water coming down the pipe and exiting the filler cap. If there is it could be the rad cap not holding pressure which it would need to be replaced or the head gasket is leaking and pressurising the coolant system.. hope this helps you..