Question about 2002 Nissan Sentra

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Chugging in all gears as rpm's go up. Once the engine is warm, if you shut it off for a few minutes and restart it the problem seems to go away until it cools down again.

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  • Nissan Master
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Is this a 1.8 liter?? check engine light on?? if so, what is the coed??

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

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1996 mercedes c280 dies when put in drive


Engine stalls or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Oct 15, 2012 | 1996 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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Dec 19, 2010 | 2009 Audi A4

1 Answer

87 Ford Taurus 3L engine shut down when warm - will not restart


after it has shut down check for gas at the fuel rail with the key on their should be gas squirting out constantly it sounds like the fuel pump is going out

Jul 28, 2009 | 1987 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Trans shifts very hard after 5 minutes of stop and go traffic


A reason for hard shifting could be a problem with many things with various degrees of seriousness. It could be your ATF( automatic transmission fluid) is low or broken down and old. This would cause the hardness and the reason for stop and go traffic effecting it. Another possibility is your transmission is just shot, and the timing gears inside are worn and not properly shifting at the correct RPM causing a **** during shifting.

Some possibilties, not all!

~Lucas

Mar 27, 2009 | 2003 Buick LeSabre

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'99 chevy Silverado Z71,5.3 engine.....will not rev when hot.....


try replacing your EGR Valve, or your Oxygen Sensor

Feb 10, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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VOLVO S40 SE 2001RPM HIGH


YOU MAY HAVE A IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE PROBLEM, CLEAN IT FIRST, THEN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE I HAVE ATTACHED.

Here is the most common cause of this stall and idle speed issues, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Nov 07, 2008 | 2000 Volvo S40

1 Answer

Jut bought used car today from Carmax. FOr some reason when in high gears (4th & 5th) and only running rpm's @ 3000 the a/c turns warm, and does not kick back in until in lower gear and after a few...


the freon is probably low, when you are at a high rpm the compressor is pumping faster causing the pressure to drop and when it drops the low pressure switch reconizes this and shuts the compressor down to avoid damage. now the condensation is coming from coldness of the low pressure line.

Aug 27, 2008 | Suzuki Aerio SX Cars & Trucks

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