Question about 1997 Chevrolet K2500

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1990 checy 3/4 ton 350TBI---won't start- turns over fine seems like it might not be getting fuel, replaced the fuel filter still nothing. How do I check to see if my sending unit is operating? or other suggestions

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I just went through this with my 1990 blazer with the 5.7 ltr engine. It was the fuel pump/lines inside the tank. They had rotted with age and though the pump was pushing fuel up the line, it wasn't strong enough to make 9 lbs of pressure that the injectors need. I bought a fuel pump at advance auto parts for $49.00 and the new filter screen for $8.00. It came with all the parts needed to replace the pump and reseal the tank hatch. It took 1 hour to drop the gas tank( try and do this when it's empty or close to it ) , replace the pump, lines and filter screen and then put the tank back up. If you're not automotively inclined, then I'd go to and find a cheap mobile mechanic in your area who will come to you. I had shops qouting me $500 to replace the fuel pump and mechanics on craigslist who'd do it for $175 if I bought the parts. I ended up doing it myself but $175 is still a better deal than an auto repair shop's price.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008


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my 91 chevy k2500 dies while driving because it keeps blowing the fusible link that carries battery power to the fuse box on the left side of the dash. Problem started a while ago when the truck suddenly died while driving down the road. Still had headlights and dash lights but nothing else. Truck wouldn't even crank over, no radio, heater etc. After troubleshooting, I ended up finding a fusible link that looked to have been repaired at one point. The wire was broken inside the insulation and there a was a **** about 1/2" long in the insulation (small gauge wire). I cut that wire out and used a jumper wire from there to the power block on the firewall to see if that would give me power at the main engine harness connector (which I was lacking before). It did. So I wired in a fuse with some 12 gauge wire using a 15A fuse (wasn't exactly sure what size wire to use and what the fusible link was suppose to be rated since it had been repaired) and hooked it to the power block on the firewall where the other fusible links are. That solved the problem of not having power to anything on the fuse panel on the dash. Drove the truck a few miles and it died again blowing the same fuse. I replaced it and only got about a mile before it did it again. Tried again and got about a 1/4 mile. One more time and only got about 50 yards. Not sure what is causing it. From what I can tell, that fusible link is providing power from the battery through the terminal block on the firewall and from there to a single pin on the main engine harness connector via fusible link to the interior. I have a diagram that shows that power going to the ignition switch and both the "stop/haz" and "acc/batt" fuses. Seems like there is something grounding out or something is breaking down under a load or when getting hot... Please help

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