Huyundai Getz 2005 1.5 crdi 3 cylinder starts only when car is jumpstarted with booster cables,new battery,altanator fine and sometimes it just dies when running has been serviced

It sounds to me like you have something binding up or building resistance due to heat. I have had a similar thing happen to me with different cars. It turned out to be a battery cable that was fine when cold, but when it warmed up, it would sag and touch against an exhaust pipe just enough so that when I went to start the vehicle, it would arc to the exhaust and lose battery power that was normally used for starting it. Another time it turned out to be the negative cable not making good enough contact. The Ford 300, 6cyl. engine is a very good solid dependable unit, but ford has always had quite long battery cables and issues with the way the were grounded. I would check my cables and maybe replace them for good measure. Also be certain that your negative cable is very solidly grounded to the block of the engine.

Check wiring on glowplugs . Check connector plate is not short-circuit on head .

IF BOOSTER CABLES MAKE THE CAR START, & THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED, IT MAY STILL HAVE A BAD CELL OR BAD CONNECTIONS. MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS AT THE BATTERY ARE CLEAN & TIGHT. TO CHECK THE CELLS, THE CELL COVERS HAVE TO COME OFF & A HYDROMETER IS NEEDED TO CHECK THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY IN EACH CELL. THE CELLS SHOULD READ 12.60= FULL CHARGE. IF THERE IS 70 OR MORE POINTS DIFFERENCE IN ANY OF THE CELLS, THE BATTERY IS CONSIDERED BAD.

Happened to me, too. On Hyudai Getz 1.5 CRDi (3 cylinder). It was just jammed butterfly (air regulator) where air is entering to machine for combustion. Due to low quality diesel soot is gathering on this butterfly and finally blocks it. However, the same problem could appear if air filter is full of dirt or blocked by dirt, or if there is computer problem in sending wrong information for combustion to engine.

You are correct in your diagnoses. Remove the negative battery cable. Position [ jack up ] the car on safety stands - remove the starter and take it to a place like Auto Zone or Advance Auto and they will test it.
There is also a test while the starter is installed as well.

Best of luck

Rice

There are a couple of factors here:

1. If you noticed the car getting harder to start when warm lately, it could be the starter is bad; a bad starter will work when cold but once it heats up, will require more and more power to turn over
2. Bad battery; a dead battery won't turn the car over even with a jump; it would need a slow charge to work again; even sealed batteries have caps that can be pried open to do a cell check (battery cell checkers inexspensive at the auto parts store) if you have 1 dead cell, the battery needs replacement
3. Corrosion; just because the posts and cables may be clean at the battery, doesn't mean there's no corrosion on the other ends of the cables

Hope this answers your question and gives you a good place to start. All the best.
Greg

Jumpstarting cars with electronic ignition is not a good idea. Your car is also fitted with an immobilizer, hence the alarm going off. Get someone to drive you to a place that sells suitable batteries, and fit the new one. You should be fine.

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