Question about Daewoo Leganza

5 Answers

Intake and exhaust cam pullyes moved when timing belt was taken off, was trying to replace timing belt and I did mark pulleys myself before taking belt off. Now the pulleys will not move, theres compression behind them. Is there a way to get them back to my marks, and if I have to reset timming how do I do that. It's on a 2002 Daewoo Leganza, Thank You

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  • jim0628 Jul 21, 2008

    I just need to know that I did move the crank shaft a little, bad advise from someone, how bad did I screw up and can I get these all lined back up, please help. Thank You

  • jim0628 Jul 21, 2008

    Firing order? Thanks

  • jim0628 Jul 22, 2008

    thank you

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5 Answers

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  • Expert
  • 304 Answers

It is not compression causing the resistance while trying to turn your cams. It is the valve spring pressure so taking out your plugs would be useless. In order to rotate the cams freely you have to remove the valve covers and loosen all the Valve adjustment retainer nuts. Your cams will now turn with your fingers. When you are done installing your belt which should be easy since you marked your pulleys (a wize move on your part) now simply re adjust your valve springs and gap them to the factory specs with a feeler gauge. It should be in the area of 12 1000th's for the intake valve and 13-14 1000th's in the exhaust to allow for expansion due to the extra heat produced in the exhaust valve from the passing hot gasses. This is the only right solution here so far. Hope this helps you. If you have any further question feel free to ask me anytime.
George

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • George Kohler
    George Kohler Jul 21, 2008

    No disrespect but the number 1 answer has nothing to do with the question at all. The timing positions are already properly marked, and the question was how to get the cams to turn freely. And again, could someone explain to me how rotating the cams with the timing belt off would have anything at all with the compression of the engine? The cam raises and lowers the valves only. With the timing belt disconnected the piston are not going to be going up and down when you turn the cams. I was just wondering about the reasoning of that one....And also with the valve retainers loosened the valve will have no seal and the crank will turn with very minimal effort. ( Just enough needed to overcome the friction of the rings and the crank bearings. Just an added thought.
    George


  • George Kohler
    George Kohler Jul 21, 2008

    I guess I will add some useless Idea's too just to be fare.
    Make sure you clean your mirrors and never drive under the influence. LOL Sorry Just kidding!

  • George Kohler
    George Kohler Jul 22, 2008

    Did the Belt Break when the motor was running? Or did you Replace the belt before it broke? If the belt broke while you where driving the valves are bent as your engine is not of the NON INTERFERENCE HEAD design category. Sorry my Diagram of the firing order did not show up. If you need it Just click on this link:



    http://autorepair.about.com/library/firi...



    Anyway, Let me know if the belt broke when the engine was running or not. If the motor was running fine before the belt broke your only problem possible is bent valves.



    Read this post if the motor was running when the belt broke:



    http://www.trustmymechanic.com/auto-repa...



    It is a story about a ford with the same exact problem as you. It is pertenant information for you read it well so you do not go through the recommended steps this person did only to find out his valves were bent because his INTERFERENCE HEAD design Engine (The SAME design as your 2.2L Subaru) bends the valves when the belt breaks when the motor is running. I do not want you to have to spend money on solutions that will not fix your problem.



    If the engine was running you will have to do a valve job. If you need more assistance I will help you for free. I know what you are going through.



    Hope to hear back from you.

    George

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Hi,

To my understanding Daewoo Leganza share the same engine from 1999 - 2002.

This might help, it is a diagram of the cam position, timing marks (cam and crank) and all other related. Additionally, an excerpt from a post here...
"...Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover)..."

Additionally, you could try removing the spark plugs to remove compression in combustion chamber.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Jul 21, 2008

    Firing order: 1-4-2-3

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Leganza_timing.JPG
Click on "Download file now" to get timing diagram.

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

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First of all, you need to remove the distributer cap, taking note of the timing mark for the number one cylender. Then you need to turn the pulley that drives the rotor to align it with the timing mark. The pulley is located on the side closest to the bumper. Next you have to remove the plug on the transmission to expose the timing mark on the flywheel. It is a clear plastic plug with a green ring around it. Then rotate the crankshaft with a socket wrench on the pulley until the timing mark is ligned up with the pointer. Then find the timing mark on the camshaft and and rotate it till its aligned with the corresponding mark. Once all the marks are ligned up, snake the belt over all the pulleys, leaving the tensioner pulley loose. Then tighten the tensioner with a piece of short wire that fits snugly in one of the holes. Then using a pair of locking pliers, grab the wire and pull till the belt is tight and tighten the nut. that should do it.

hope this may help;

Good luck,and thank you using fixya;

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

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The pulleys should move, take a wrench and try turning them. Most likely they are on the compression stroke and so you are just having a hard time turning them. As long as everything is off by the same number of teeth, you can put the belt back on and the tensioner on without the marks being lined up. Make sure once the tension is replaced that all of them are perfect. It took me 4 tries last time I did it on an engine, perfection is key. Let me know if you need anything else. good luck

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 21, 2008

    Go get a Chilton or a Haynes manual for this car and look up timing belt. There should be two small dots over each gear for the camshafts with a notch on one of the teeth on each gear. The Crankshaft gear should have an arrow that lines up with an arrow on the engine. Just line all three up to their appropriate points and you should be fine. The manual will be around $20 from any local car parts store. The firing order and anything else will also be in the manual with diagrams. Let me know if you need anything else.

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 21, 2008

    geokohler, you are right, it won't be the compression so much as the valve springs. I just can't imagine them being too tough to turn, I can turn them by hand on my car. When we were first lining them up, it was by turning the crankshaft with the belt still on and the resistance from the compression stroke could definitely be felt.

    Jim, you have nothing to worry about, if you plan on doing most of the work on your car yourself, I highly suggest getting one of the manuals that I suggested as they will have basically everything you need. Let me know if you need anything else.


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Required tools:

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If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

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Required tools:
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If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
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Here is the entire timing belt replacement procedure.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

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here is the entire procedure tart to finish.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

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1 Answer

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follow this procedure.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Mar 14, 2009 | 1999 Daewoo Lanos

1 Answer

Cannot figure out timing marks on a 2000 daewoo nubira


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Mar 04, 2009 | 2002 Daewoo Nubira

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