Question about Daewoo Leganza
It is not compression causing the resistance while trying to turn your cams. It is the valve spring pressure so taking out your plugs would be useless. In order to rotate the cams freely you have to remove the valve covers and loosen all the Valve adjustment retainer nuts. Your cams will now turn with your fingers. When you are done installing your belt which should be easy since you marked your pulleys (a wize move on your part) now simply re adjust your valve springs and gap them to the factory specs with a feeler gauge. It should be in the area of 12 1000th's for the intake valve and 13-14 1000th's in the exhaust to allow for expansion due to the extra heat produced in the exhaust valve from the passing hot gasses. This is the only right solution here so far. Hope this helps you. If you have any further question feel free to ask me anytime.
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
To my understanding Daewoo Leganza share the same engine from 1999 - 2002.
This might help, it is a diagram of the cam position, timing marks (cam and crank) and all other related. Additionally, an excerpt from a post here...
"...Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover)..."
Additionally, you could try removing the spark plugs to remove compression in combustion chamber.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
First of all, you need to remove the distributer cap, taking note of
the timing mark for the number one cylender. Then you need to turn the
pulley that drives the rotor to align it with the timing mark. The
pulley is located on the side closest to the bumper. Next you have to
remove the plug on the transmission to expose the timing mark on the
flywheel. It is a clear plastic plug with a green ring around it. Then
rotate the crankshaft with a socket wrench on the pulley until the
timing mark is ligned up with the pointer. Then find the timing mark on
the camshaft and and rotate it till its aligned with the corresponding
mark. Once all the marks are ligned up, snake the belt over all the
pulleys, leaving the tensioner pulley loose. Then tighten the tensioner
with a piece of short wire that fits snugly in one of the holes. Then
using a pair of locking pliers, grab the wire and pull till the belt is
tight and tighten the nut. that should do it.
hope this may help;
Good luck,and thank you using fixya;
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
The pulleys should move, take a wrench and try turning them. Most likely they are on the compression stroke and so you are just having a hard time turning them. As long as everything is off by the same number of teeth, you can put the belt back on and the tensioner on without the marks being lined up. Make sure once the tension is replaced that all of them are perfect. It took me 4 tries last time I did it on an engine, perfection is key. Let me know if you need anything else. good luck
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.
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