I had to periodically add brake fluid to my b2200 or my clutch apparatus would fail, however when I added fluid, function would be restored. This became more and more frequent over the course of a couple of months until one day it stopped working and adding more brake fluid didnt restore function. At that time i noticed a puddle of fluid on the ground where I stopped. I refilled the reservoir and it remains full but the function of my clutch is not restored?
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Re: clutch or slave cylinder?
If the fluid paddle is below the transmission, then it would be the slave, if it is below the firewall, then it would be the clutch master. There are repair kits available that contains most of the necessary parts to repair either the slave or master. Thereafter, it would be necessary to "bleed" the system to remove the air bubbles and set the clutch play.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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First off, clutch hydraulics use ONLY dot 3/4 brake fluid, if you used any kind of petroleum product you have ruined the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave/actuator(GM's term)cylinder. The level is on the side of the reservoir. If you had to add fluid, you have a leak in the system, probably the slave cylinder first. A master cylinder leak would have fluid on the inside of the firewall, where the master cylinder is mounted(leaking at the back). You bleed clutch hydraulics as you would with brakes.
Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
may have a broken clutch cable, if it has one if it has a slave cylinder check the fluid usually located next to the brakes master cylinder,if fluid is low add some brake fluid and pump it up if it starts to work you might have a leak, very rare cases the pressure plate gets worn through by the throw out bearing, check these hope it helps you.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.
The brake system and the clutch master cylinder have the same fluid tank, look at the brake master cylinder fluid tank, on the right hand side about half way up is a hose that goes over to the clutch master cylinder, if fluid level is not above this hose the clutch will stop functioning. If the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the front side of transmission bellhousing, leaks then the clutch will stop functioning. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw, check these items and fill and bleed as neccessary. Hope this helps, let me know.
CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS STARTING AT MASTER CYLINDER THEN CHECK SLAVE CYLINDER AT G/BOX IF OK THEN BLEED CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER OR SLAVE CYLINDER MIGHT HAVE WORN SEALS IN THEM THOUGH SO PARTS MIGHT NEED REPLACED.