Question about 1995 Ford Escort

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Caliper stuck? i had new struts put in front both sides. Then took it for inspection sticker. He won't pass it because he says caliper isn't moving. Brakes seem fine.

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I had to replace both calipers on my 95 escort, only the left side was stuck but better to replace both at the same time to eleviate any other problems. cost was approx 90.00 for both

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

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For an inspection, they have no way to tell the caliper isn't moving without disassembling the brakes. I don't know where he got that from unless he was talking about something else and used the wrong terminology. If the calipers were frozen, you'd know.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008


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I have a 2004 Mazda MPV with some wierd brake issues. I found what appeared to be a bad caliper on front passenger side, and replaced with a new one, yet this same wheel continues to seize up. What is...

If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.

Feb 15, 2011 | 2004 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

Just had radiator flushed and refilled same with transmission new struts on front end and shocks on rear and front rotor and pads now i have a noise like bolt stuck in the tire and it starts at 30 mph...

sounds like you may have not gotten the bolt in the caliper mount right. I have had cars come in with this problem and the caliper lays on top of the rotor and does not make noise unless it' moving. Pull the front wheels off and check to see that the bolts are in their prospective holes. Next if you don't find that as a problem look a the strut bushings they may be damaged, to check raise the wheel off the grind with a jack and put a bar under the wheel and lift up and down quickly. If you hear a bump you have found the problem. Also sometimes the strut springs come loose check that the spring does not turn in the strut housing. Hope this helps.

Dec 02, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

4 Answers

Need to reset 2007 equinox after replacing battery to pass inspection... Any ideas?

i took the battery out of an o7 Eqinox to check the washer pump. when i put the battery back in, the car won't start & now the key is stuck in the ignition. i took the battery to be tested & it is good.

Nov 11, 2010 | 2007 Chevrolet Equinox LS New Cars

1 Answer

Abs light is on and sometimes brakes make noise like its stuck

I have had so much trouble with my brakes on my 2000 blazer it's not even funny. My rear brakes first started to stick after i changed the pads, so i then thought the caliper was sticking, changed the caliper, (both sides), still no help. finally, changed all the rubber lines on the rear and finally fixed it. NOW, the front is starting to stick, but like a dummy i didnt change the rubber lines first, i started to inspect the abs system, which never had the light on by the way, and finally took out the big fuse under the hood that controlled it, because it was activating itself at will. i have recently changed the driver rubber line which connects to the caliper, which is also new, both sides. was gonna change the pass side but ran out of money. my suggestion is to replace all calipers, all rubber lines. Then sell the damn thing as soon as possible before you really have to pay an arm and a leg for some serious repair. that is my plan in the next month. i heard toyota was the way to go, but idk. hope this helps. oh the rubber lines collapse and lets fluid travel one direction, (applies brakes), but doesnt let it flow back, (release), in case you was wondering how the rubber affected it. good luck

Jun 24, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Need instruction on installing front brake pads for 1994 Camry...

The Camry brake system is very simple and easy to work with

Raise and support the car safely and remove the front wheel.

Undo the two bolts that hold the brake piston to the caliper. These are the two bolts toward the front. Remove and support the piston in a manner that does not place any strain on the brake line. For example, you can use a length of string to hang the piston from the strut spring.

With the piston out of the way, undo the two remaining bolts closer to the axle, that hold the brake caliper to the knuckle. Remove the caliper.

The old pads will slide out of the caliper. Note how they fit in place before removing them, so you can place the new ones the same way. Remove the shims from the back of each pad and place them on the back of the new pads.

Slide the new pads into the caliper.

Bolt the caliper onto the knuckle.

Use a clamp or a piston expander to push the piston back so it will fit over the new pads. Take care while doing this that you do not overflow the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

Put the piston back in place over the pads and bolt it onto the caliper.

Make sure all bolts are torqued to spec.

When replacing the pads, remove and inspect the rotors. If necessary, have them turned or replace them.

Also, inspect the calipers and make sure the spring arms move freely. Inspect the caliper hardware (clips and springs) and replace if necessary.

Inspect the pistons. If necessary, drain and refill the pistons with fresh brake fluid, and bleed the system.

With the brakes back in place, check that the brake pedal is firm or firms up after a few pumps at the most. If not, you will need to figure out why.

Replace the wheel, lower the car, torque the lug nuts to spec, and you're done.

Brakes are an essential safety system of your car. Follow these instructions at your own risk. Refer to a complete service manual.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.


Apr 08, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

Knock on front left suspension v70 52 plate

usual cause is the anti roll bar drop link that is worn easy to replace

Nov 23, 2009 | 2001 Volvo S60

2 Answers

Front driver side suspension knock over bumps

See if you can bounce car and replicate the noise. If you can, you should be able to find it, and put your hand on it. Stabilizer bushing are a place to look, both at the lower a arm and on the frame. If you narrow it down to the strut, it will need to be replaced. The front trans mount also goes bad, try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and give it some gas and see if the engine moves an excessive amount.

Nov 23, 2009 | 1992 Buick Regal

2 Answers

1992 Ford Bronco 5.0L fuel problems (problems)

First one problem at a time then move to the next after one is fixed focus.
Blue or gray is the question? if it is blue it's oil, you didn't mention if it is a blast of smoke when you gun it or does it smoke all the time? is it black smoke ? overfuel problem ? is this why you asked about the Inertia switch?can't read your mind. It's just throwing in an issue you don't need to deal with, it only stops fuel in a collision or tire blow out it would not run period. The bumping noise can be the shock or struts banging around or the nuts loose, Strut tower bearing bad. Check the bushings o the control arms and anti sway bars, Ford uses different names but look at all the rubber front and rear, try moving things around with your hands. top bottom one side then the next do in a logical way start at one point figure it out move to the next possiblity.
On the driver side you have a stuck caliper or warped cylinder so pull apart and rebuild or buy a rebuilt caliper pre loaded, if you don't know how to check them then I suggest you buy a pre loaded caliper, did you lube the rails on the caliper moves on? did you test them for free movement? Replace the rotor it will be toast. Also check the Differential if it has free play in the shaft, Jack up the wheel and move the wheel back and forth with the transmission in netural and wheels blocked if you have more than 1/4 of a turn on the pinion bearing then you will need to shim the rear end pinion gear, or replace the crush bearing, But only if you know how to set up a rear end. Otherwise take it to someone who knows what they are doing, or take a class at local community college to learn this stuff, it harder to trouble shoot some of this stuff over the net, You could buy a book for bakes and other areas you need help with. I just gave you a few answers but need to ask many more questions to give you really good answers. Can't read your mind nor see with your eyes don't know what you have done and what you have not done.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1992 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

2004 chev optra ls

hi,you mention your struts,try to replace and check also your suspension bushing,if not try to check your chassis alignment,ty

Apr 13, 2009 | 2007 Mercedes-Benz ML500

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