My battery light on the instrument panel lit up and I replaced the battery. The light went out but came back on after 1 day and the car died and would not start.

then starter motor is dead, and is silent, and will not crank the engine at all(I GUESS)
correct?
starter dead is just 6 causes posted her 1000 times and 1million times if you googled why is my starter dead
again just for your causes.
yous said jump starts fail but no words at all is the starter motor dead silent.
I can push start my car but it has a manual transmission.
all IP cluster freeze when engine dies and goes to self test mode , glows lamps.
scan the PCM now and it tells you what failed with DTC error as you crank any dead engine.

causes
battery cables lugs loose or rusty cleanm em.
1:battery is bad, charger it up first or replace it if charging fails or load test fails (those are TOOLS)
2: fuse blown. to IGN switch (check all fuses if savvy)
3: IMMO lamp not unhappy, bad key, lost 2nd spare key? oops. but cuts spark and confuses many.
4: keyswitch bad ST pin failing and BAD.
5: PRNDL switch bad (a/t box) shift tO N=neutral and turn key to ST crank position, cured?
6: starter relay bad.
7: starter motor dead and bad.
8: all wires connecting all this up above bad (we use a volt meter) to find all these.

THE STARTER MOTOR CAN BE HOT-WIRED TESTED IN-SITU, AND TESTED KEYS IN POCKET SAFE.
POSTED VAST TIMES THIS) OR ASK HOW. OR GET THE CAR SERVICED, BY FOLKS THAT KNOW HOW.
SKILLS AND TOOLS BOTH. YOU DO NOT HAVE.

TURNS OVER(EEKS)
50% OF POSTERS MEANS STARTER IS DEAD."NOT TURN OVER"
50% OF POSTERS USE THE WORD FOR ENGINE RUNS OR NOT. (CRAZY NO?) THIS USELESS PHRASE?
BEST IS SAY CRANK AND AVOID THE SILLY WORDS TURNS OVER.

CRANKS AND WILL NOT START (50 CAUSES)
OR WILL NOT CRANK (SURE IT CANT START)AND 6 CAUSES, BUT MINE PUSH STARTS ANY DAY.

IF THE STARTER MOTOR IS SILENT SAY SO
OR SAY IT CLICKS ONLY OR CHATTERS ONLY.
THE DEAF HELPERS CAN NOT HEAR YOUR STARTER , EVER. UNLESS VIDEO OF IT POSTED WOW..

Disconnect the battery - negative cable for 5min connect it back and try start it should work

Both lo & hi are out ? The headlamps are controlled by the BCM - body control module . HDLP Lo & HDLP Hi relay's are turned on (energized) by the BCM . Headlamp switch is a input to the BCM . Does the charging (alternator) system charge the battery ? Battery light lit on the instrument cluster ? Your best bet , Take it to a qualified repair shop.

I assume there's a problem with alternator. Check the grounding to engine, check continuity of a positive wire between alternator and battery. the energizing voltage should be checked as well. Might be the bad connection between battery and vehicle body grounding. Diesel cars are sensitive even in a little loss of connection and rust in the connection points.

from having a died battery the body control module goes into back up mode from a low battery so disconect the battery for 5 min that should reset it

Most auto instrument panels are back-lit with a light bulbs, that just twist in/out. They are very simple to replace, its getting to the instrument cluster that can be the bear. Look on-line on how to remove your instrument cluster and get to your bulb and you can get it fixed. I would say on a 1 to 10 difficulty scale its probably a 4.5, if you did it yourself. Good Luck

Is there a SECURITY light lit on the instrument cluster ? Anti- theft system .

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Could be lose connection on the back of the instrument cluster ,which means you would need to pull it out of the vehicle . Check pin fit to instrument cluster . for the B+ voltage suppy an ground connection's .
You said autozone - Tried to have auto zone diagnose from inside the car, came up with no codes. That's in the PCM - engine computer . There scan tool will not communicate with the instrument cluster ,which is also a computer in it's self. Need a factory scan tool to check instrument cluster.
Speedometer and/or Odometer Inaccurate
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No
Important: A short to ground will cause an open fuse(s). Before performing this diagnostic procedure, inspect the fuse(s) for an open.
1
Did you perform the Instrument Cluster System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Instrument Cluster System Check
2
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
With the scan tool select Instrument Panel Cluster, Special Functions, Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) gauges.
Perform the Speed Gauge Sweep Test.
Does the speedometer complete a full sweep when commanded?
--
Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls
Go to Step 3
3
Replace the instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Cluster Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Instrument Cluster System Check
--
With a scan tool select the instrument panel cluster, data display, gear status.
Monitor the gear range status.
Move the gear lever through each gear.
Does the scan tool display the correct gear selected?
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

you have to clear all the codes first, your vehicle stored fault even when the battery was replaced it created trouble codes. have it reseted and see if it comes back on.
let me know