After I drive my car for 15-30 minutes, the engine gets really hot. The temperature gauge does not venture past the middle, however the engine feels hot for hours after it is turned off. The fan does not come on.
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No it is not. Is your engine running hot according to temperature gauge? That is the coolant return which means the coolant was too hot coming out of engine and returning to rad for cooling. You obviously have a cooling system problem whether water pump, thermostat, rad, cooling fan etc. Give more details on what happens when starting from cool, and sittting idling, driving etc as far as temperature gauge reads and how hot engine gets. Be careful not to overheat engine, if you haven't already
Have you checked your cooling fan to see if it is working propely? Let the car idle and get warm and listen for the fan to kick in (if they are electric) or just watch to see if the fan starts to spin faster if it is the old school type with a clutch. Have you replaced the thermostat? A bad one will let the temp rise since it opens too late and then the temp will drop off. But it won't due this only at a light and it will do it infrequently.
check coolant level could be too low allowing air in the cooling system causing air pocket in engine around the engine coolant sensor.coolant sensor needs to be in hot coolant so it will cause the cooling fan to come on at a set temperature.make sure coolant correct level and the coolant level in the cooling overflow jug should be at full cold mark.the cooling overflow jug should never be empty,if you see empty cooling overflow jug air got in the cooling system so make sure when engine cold every time raise hood make sure cooling overflow jug coolant level at full cold mark.if jug stay empty you have cooling leak.so replace radiator cap,if coolant level all good,i would replace the engine coolant temperature and thermostat.when your car come to a long stop or driving along long line of slow moving traffic the engine coolant blower motor should running if not have vechicle code scan for faulty coolant fan motor control module.or ecm problems.
How do you know it gets hot? Are you going by the temperature gauge on the dash? Or have you checked under the hood and found out the engine really is running hot? ...Reason I ask is, something just doesn't sound right in your description. After just 5 minutes from starting and driving away, the engine would not yet be at normal operating temperature. That would explain the heater not yet warm. But the temp. gauge says hot? If so, I would replace the temperature sending unit on the engine. the one for the dash gauge, and see if that was the problem-not reading the temp. accurately. Couple of other things: Are you sure you got all the air out of the coolant system? Start the car with the radiator cap off and let it run until the engine is warmed up fully, then shut it off and install the cap. Does your reservoir tank stay about half full where it should be, between the full-hot and full-cold marks? If your problem persists. I would have the coolant system pressure tested, and see if you could get a true temperature reading of the coolant when it seems to be running hot. Good luck.
IF COOLANT TEMPERATURE RISING,CHECK TOP RADIATOR HOSE IF TOP RADIATOR HOSE IS NOT HOT REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF ALL IS GOOD.IF CAR OVERHEAT WHILE SITTING IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE.THE COOLING FANS NOT WORKING,CHECK COOLANT FANS FUSE AND RELAYS.IF BOTH IS GOOD.HOT WIRE TO SEE IF COOLANT FAN TURNS ON IF NO FAN MOTOR BAD.IF YES FAN MOTOR GOOD. PROBLEM COULD BE FAULTY COOLING FAN WIRING OR BAD ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR BAD OR FAULT IN THE PCM.
It could be a plugged heater core or heater control problem. I assume the blower is working, but the air is cold. The first thing to check is the coolant level, make sure there is coolant in the resivoir. Next see if the temerature gauge reaches the normal operating temperature range. If the gauge reads cold most of the time, it would tell you that the thermsotat is faulty and not allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature. If your car doesn't have a temp gauge, the blue cold engine light might stay on for an extended period of time. The thermostat is supposed to not allow coolant flow in the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature. If you drive the car for a couple of minutes, from cold start, the radiator or upper hose should be cool until the engine reaches operating temp.
250 DEGREES ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT.SOUND LIKE CLUTCH FAN FREEWHEEL.IF CLUTCH FAN DONT LOCK IN OR HAVE RESISTANCE TURNING BY HAND WHEN ENGINE HOT.FAN CLUTCH IS BAD.IF FAN CLUTCH OKAY COOLANT LEVEL CORRECT.I WOULD CHANGE THERMOSTAT FLUSH OUT ENGINE AND RADIATOR.IF ENGINE TEMPERATURE STILL READS 250 DEGREES OVER FLOW JUG OR RESERVOIR NOT BOILING OVER THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULTY.
I don't have the solution but I have the same problem. You are not alone. I have done everything you have done and have run out of options as far as fixing it with OEM parts. I am going to over ride the system with a hot wire and toggle switch and tie into the led wire on the #1 fan so when temp starts to rise past 180 degrees I can turn the fans on. Freeway driving is ok for me, no fan needed, just when I get off the freeway and around town engine gets hot. My toggle switch has a L.E.D. light in it to indicate the switch is on.
Check coolant level, and possibly replace thermostat. When a thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant does not circulate thru motor. Gauge stays midrange when driving, because motor is being cooled by air and or the fan. If car seems to operate completely normal, then the gauge is faulty.
When your temperature gauge reaches "H' it may too late to
prevent a major breakdown. Knowing the symptoms of an overheated car and how
they occur may be the difference between being inconvenienced and
incapacitated. Identification:---Other than a low oil level or low oil
pressure light, there is not a more significant part of a car's instrumentation
than a rising temperature gauge or a glowing "Hot" light. These
lights are really the only confirmation a driver has that his car is really
overheating. It is the identification of the symptoms of an overheating car
that enable the motorist to avert a badly damaged engine. Overheating is always
a traumatic event for a car's engine, which makes the early identification of
the symptom an important addition to the informed motorist's tool kit. Stuck Thermostat:--The car's thermostat is a valve that controls coolant
flow from the engine block to the radiator. When the engine is cold the
thermostat remains closed so that the coolant can reach operating temperature
quicker and also provide heat to the passenger's compartment. The thermostat
has a spring on it that moves depending on coolant temperature causing the
thermostat to open. Sometimes the thermostat fails to open thus restricting
coolant flow to the radiator where it would be cooled down. This condition is often
the cause of overheating. The symptoms of this cause would be a rising
temperature gauge and possibly the loss of heat inside the car. Restricted Radiator:---A car's radiator will have thousands of gallons of
coolant passing through in its lifetime. Along with the coolant comes
particulate matter in the form of corrosion breaking loose from various parts
of the car's cooling system. These contaminates collect in the tubes of the
radiator reducing its efficiency. Extensive "plugging" in the radiator
will cause the car to overheat. The symptom of this condition would be a rising
temperature gauge which goes up when you accelerate. Coolant Loss:--A car's
cooling system is a closed loop system. You are not supposed to lose coolant.
Sufficient coolant loss will cause the engine to run hot because engine is
heating less coolant to higher temperatures. The symptom of overheating induced
by coolant loss would be a pool of coolant on the pavement when the leak is
external. Steam under the hood as the lost coolant hits hot parts of the
engine, or a rising temperature gauge in the case of a undetectable engine
related leak. Of course, the gauge would also go up if the leaks were not
Deteriorated Water Pump:--Cars
use a belt driven pump to push the water and coolant mixture through the
cooling system. This part is called the water pump. Rarely the impeller that
draws the coolant through the pump will rust away making it impossible to push
any through the system. If this occurs the temperature gauge will climb and coolant
will boil over in the radiator.
cooling fans are electrically driven. Some are driven by fan belts. If a belt
breaks or the electric supply to the fan is interrupted overheating may result.
Electric fans are tuned on thermostatically when needed. When the car runs at
idle for extended periods or the weather is extremely hot, a failed fan will
cause overheating otherwise it serves as a standby assist to the rest of the
cooling system. In stress conditions an inoperable fan will cause the
temperature gauge to rise.
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