Dies going down highway, will not start but does crank good.
Has spark, has approx 70 psi per cylinder, with noid light on injector wire I do get pulse when cranking, has spark (about a inch jump), fuel filter new, if you leave it in gear and crank for about 10 seconds it sort of starts and rolls a bit.
Fuel presuure I di not check with gague but if you take off the line it does flow into can ok while cranking and if you hold your finger over it it feels like a good amount of pressure, the lower line on the fule rail (return?) does blow gas back, not sure if it should?
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Re: 1984 jetta 2.0
Does tjhe rotor is correcty line up? Does the distributor is line up to? If you got fuel, mybe the spark isn't done a the proper time. Take of the distributor, the rotor shoulb be line up with a mark on the distributor imself. and the cap shoulb be line up with this mark to. You can also check this link http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280053186
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Check distributor rotation to ensure good timing belt. If good, check crank and cam position sensors. The computer fires the plugs and injectors based on many factors but most importantly the crankshaft and camshaft position.
Ok first I would like to know is it a 4 or 6 cylinder the first thing I need you to do is spray just a little bit of carburetor cleaner not starting fluied starting fluied can start a fire then if it start n dies you might have a fuel pressure problem next go to autozone buy a noid light there cheap remove the injector harness plug in the noid light crank it for a few seconds if the light on the noid light keeps blinking your crank n cam Sensor n computer is working if not the crank sensor supplies the spark n injector impluse also if you don't have a check engine light on when you turn the key on check fuese n relays keep me in touch
Do you still for sure have spark? If so, I would test the injector circuit with a cheap "noid light". You can make a tester with a 12 volt bulb and jumper wires, but parts stores sell a noid light which would fit your Chrysler injector connectors, so you could test the circuit. You plug it in to an injector connector and crank the engine over. If the light is blinking, the circuit is working and the injectors should be spraying gas into the cylinders.
The injectors have constant voltage to them anytime the key is on. It is a fused circuit. the fuse should be in the distribution box under the hood. So constant voltage to them, it is only when the pcm grounds the circuit for a split second that the pulse occurs. All injector grounds go into the pcm.
Sounds like #2 is still missing. Misfires can be caused by an ignition problem, a fuel problem, or a mechanical problem where there is no compression in the cylinder. Okay, you have changed the coil. Now try changing spark plugs and the spark plug wire-Swap #2 and #1 spark plugs and the plug wire too, and see if misfire follows now on #1. If it does, bad plug or bad plug wire. Of course you could just drop a new plug into #2 and see what happens. If no change, swap the plug wires and test again. If still misfiring, check the spark at end of plug wire-you need to see a blue snapping spark to know the ignition is working good on that #2. If you have spark there, need to check if the injector is pulsing and spraying fuel into the cylinder. You might be able to feel the injector pulse if you hold a finger lightly on the injector while engine is running-should be a steady, rather rapid click feel to the injector. If not sure, have the injector circuit checked. You can buy an inexpensive "noid light" at auto parts stores, one that fits your injector circuit, plug it into #2 injector, and crank the car over or run the engine and watch the light-if working, the noid light will be blinking. This verifies the circuit is good. If the spark plug is wet with gas when pulled out, that would verify that injector is spraying fuel into the cylinder. If still no help, have the compression checked in #2. Low compression from a valve problem or head gasket problem can cause misfires. Good luck.
Check if the injectors are pulsing when cranking the engine over. Listen for the tick, or feel for the pulse with your fingertips, or buy a cheap "noid light"-an injector circuit tester- one that fits your injector harness connectors-plug it into an injector connector and crank the car. If circuit is working the noid light will be flashing.
Some anti-theft systems immobilize the injector circuit when they are activated. So you have spark, compression, and fuel to the engine, check the injector circuit.
use a digital volt meter,put it on the ohm scale check number 2 fuel injector should be 11 to 16 ohms if not reads zero fuel injector faulty.if numbe 2 fuel injector okay.use noid light hook it to fuel injector electrical connector with fuel injector disconnected and see if pcm is firing the fuel injector noid light should blink when cranking the engine.if light steady pcm not firing 2 fuel injector,if noid light dont light up.there is a open in the wiring connector 2 fuel injector 2. if fuel injector okay,check spark plug, carbon foul you have a bad ignition coil or wire if you see oil on spark plug you have worn piston ring or leaking valve guides allowing oil to foul out spark plug.do a compression test check compression to see condition of the cylinder.
You need to find out if you have enough fuel pressure, and if you have injector pulse. A noid light is a simple kind of test light that you can get at a parts house to test injector pulse. Unplug an injector and plug the noid light into the harness. Have someone crank the engine, if it flashes then your injectors are firing. Check all the fuses under the hood. You should have 55 to 60 psi fuel pressure.
Start with testing the injectors for pulse. Get a NOID light they sell the at almost any auto parts store remove in get plug from injector and plug the noid light into plug look for constant steady (pulse)lighting of noid light. Check all six injector on your strait 6. If all is good remove parke plug wire on at a time from cap and look for increased shaking and less when it replaced(Make sure to use wire puller with rubber insulation to avoid being zapped by spark from coil) Note cylinder with no difference or change when wire is removed. Those would be the problem cylinders. Then get a compression guage and check all cylinders for compression by removing spark plugs and attaching guage to each cylinders, make a not of each cylinder's reading. NOTE THEY SHOULD NOT BE MORE THAN 10 PSI difference in cylinders. Make note of low compression cylinders if any. If compression is good all around spark plugs are good, good ignition wires and you have good pulse pattern from you noid light. The only other problem is BAD INJECTORS and those would be the ones that didn't change when you took off the wires. I have work on these old cressidaalot my self. Good Luck contact me if you need more help and if I solve your problem leave me a FIX-YA comment.
sounds like ecm. car starts but when it switches over to run setting from cranking setting the cumputer ecu doent activate the run curcuits which may control your fuel injectors. check to see if engine has spark. remove one plug wire from spark plug put it close to the valve cover if you see an arc then you know that you have spark. then also go to fuel pump in tank and check voltage on the power wire if you have good voltage and the pump doesnt make any noise while ur cranking then it may be a fuel pump if the pump is making way to much noise then check the fuel pressure by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge. all test are to be done while someone cranks the engine. noid light for the injectors, disconnect on injector electical connetor connect the noid light to the wire that u just unplugged from the injector. the light will flash while u crank , once it goes to the run circut the light will either stay on which will shut off ur car or the light will stay off which will do the same. if the noid light did what I said when it went to the run circut then it is what controls your injectors...ecm good luck....daniel