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Re: need step by step on how to bleed hydrolic clutch on...
First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.
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if the clutch is hydrolic,sorry,there is really no adjustment. Hydriloc clutch master cylinders can be a ****** to bleed the air out and it could just take an afternoon of you and a buddy bleeding it. And remember, bleeding a clutch is different than bleeding breaks. It is a slow and time consuming process. If the pedal problem has been going on for some miles, you could also have a bad synchroniser in your trans preventing proper engaugement
Remove the inspection cover on the bellhousing (between trans and motor) to see if it is all wet inside with hydrolic fluid if so you need to replace the hydrolic slave cylinder.I hope you find this helpfull. Good Luck.
you need 2 people one in cab and one down at clutch cylinder have one pump clutch and hold down ,and other person open bleed to let air out keep repeating this operation until you have no air coming out just fluid dont forget to keep topping up reservoir
want to know a short cut? (trick) take the master cylinder for the clutch off the firewall and tilt forward while pumping the pistron by hand and bleeding those fords are notorious for air locking in the master cylinder due to the fact!! they fasten to the firewall at a backwards tilt!! i have done over 2700 of them in 45 years
The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom........... Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics