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1) Work safely: work on this only when the transmission is cold. Hot transmission oil will burn you. Note - the transmission filter is actually a metal screen. If you search on AW71 filter and look at the images you can get a better sense of what you are working on if you haven't done one. 2) Drain the oil via the drain plug. The recommendation is that at the same time of changing the filter, the transmission should be pressure-flushed, removing suspended particles in the oil itself. 3) Remove the transmission oil pan. Be prepared for some oil spillage from the valve body. 4) Remove the screen, observing scrupulous cleanliness when working inside this area. Note how it is installed very carefully. 5) Attached to the transmission are magnets, designed to trap metallic shaving before they can damage the transmission. Clean these thoroughly. 6) Clean the transmission oil pan thoroughly and allow it to dry completely. 7) Using a new filter, install it correctly into its location. 8) Using a new transmission oil pan gasket, install the pan and tighten to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. Do this slowly and incrementally; it is possible to warp the pan on installation. 9) Top up the oil level if much was lost - observe proper top-up procedures and never overfill the transmission. Check for leaks from the drain plug and oil pan gasket. If you overfill, transmission fluid will be ejected from the fill tube and there is a risk of damaging the unit. 10) Road test the vehicle. 11) Check the oil level once again, ensuring that it is neither underfilled nor overfilled.
YES.you can do it easy,prop the car up on stands,climb under and undo the square plug on the bottom of the gearbox,catch the oil in a can with the side cut out ,then to fill undo the square plug on the side(making sure you have replaced the drain plug ha.ha.)and fill until oil flows out and stops dripping,then replace bolt,JOB DONE.only do up bolts heavy hand tight.
Any oil manufatured today will meet the requirments regaurdless of where it was made or where it was purchased.Here is a link to the owners manual.Hope it helps.http://www.volvoosad.com/Manuals/940_1993.pdf#190
Make sure the electric fans are operating as they should.
Check for a blocked radiator core,
Check water pump drive OK,
Get a radiator shop to do 'coolant gas check' for a blown head gasket (looks for combustion gas bubbles in the water system).
take off pipe going to the intercooler from the turbo see if oil is found and clean then other pipe from incooler check it .if oil is found .drain oil in intercooler .you have an oil leak from the turbo this is why you will have light on far left of dash
The code seems to point to the camshft actuator circuit. Namely the Oil Control Valve. Probably needs replacement. I do not know the location on your vehicle. I suggest you ask a mechanic or try to find it online.
1995 940 has a crank position sensor mounted at the top rear of the engine which reads cranks position off the flywheel. Though not adjustable, it is a part which fails often causing weird and intermittent no start/hard start problems as well as other faults. While the part is not too expensive, you do have to crawl on top of the engine to see it, and its a pain to replace. Guess you could remove the hood, but I have changed mine without doing so. Get light on the area,and you can do it. If you are having timing too far advanced issues (running on when killing engine or "pinging" on acceleration several other parts may be suspect. Knock sensor, spark plug issues, carbon buildup, O2 sensor, lean condition and more. Good luck.
i know this might sound unrelated but i noticed the same problem solved by chance when i changed the actual engine oil. i drained engine oil thoroughly (overnight) and changed filter. after running it a couple of times the orange arrow stays off, this problem reoccurs once the engine oil ages so i change my oil and filter every 5000kms. my guess is that some sort of censor reacts to the old oil as i'm not sure how the two are related.