Hello, I want to know what sockets and rachets i will need to use to remove the back spark plugs that are near the windshield. It is a tight squeeze and my standard spark plug 5/8 extension socket bar is too long. The car hood prevents me from doing so. 2007 cadillac dts email

Well you need a Rachet set with a spark plug socket for your Car. Then place the socket on the spark plug after removing the wire and turn counter clockwise to remove it. Counter clockwise is turning left if looking at a clock. Be sure not to break the spark plug wires when removing them. You must hold them tightly at the end and pull them off slowly and carefully. Once you have the spark plug end of the wire off,, put it aside but remember which spark plug it goes too. It's very important not to mix them up.

When putting your new spark plugs in be sure to set the gap correctly or buy a set of spark plugs with preset gaps. Then place the new plug into the hole and turn them clockwise to tighten by hand at first them with your sparkplug socket and rachet until the new sparkplug is snug. Not to tight. Just snug as it will tighten a bit more on it's own. Then replace the spark plug wire carefully.

3/8 drive socket set with extra extensions and two universals

First get the spark plugs, then get the right swivel socket for the spark plugs and a gapper for the gap of the spark plugs.

Remove the boot, from the first spark plug, and..

Unscrew each spark plug one at a time (making sure not to mix up the spark plug wires) using a ratchet and extension, and the swivel spark plug socket by turning counter clockwise.

Carefully gap each spark plug, if needed, and insert by hand and slowly screw in each spark plug, making sure not to cross thread.

Put the boot back on to each spark plug, making sure that you squeeze down the connector a little bit to ensure a good tight connection.

Remember, replace one spark plug at a time and replace the boot in order to not get the firing order mixed up.

Answer Yes, changing out the spark plugs on Toyota's tranverse mount V6 engines is tough. I have a 2002 Sienna which is similar to all models 2003 and prior. The front 3 plugs are easy. But the back 3 are really tough to reach. 2001 and prior Siennas only need the Denso platinum plugs PK20TR11 which I think are dual head plugs. But older Siennas can probably still benefit from pricier iridium plugs because they fire more consistently at lower voltage and can take higher temperatures than platinum. I did some research on the web, and folks are raving about Denso Iridium Power IK20s. They are a bit more than the NGKs, but on eBay, I found a set of 4 for just $33-buy-it-now in CA. So I bought 3 sets (12 plugs total). Tools you'll need - a common 3/8 inch square rachet socket driver. The overall length must not exceed 8 inches inches long and mine is a cheap one from any store. But I would recommend that the rachet have a push button socket release and a fine tooth rachet that clicks every 15 degrees. Next, you need a med-long extension. The spark plug is deep in the tube and you'll need ideally, 5 3/4 inches and no more than 6 1/2 inches max. Of course you need a standard spark plug socket. Additionally, you'll need a 5mm allen wrench. and lastly, a 10 mm closed-end crescent wrench. Length should be no longer than 7 inches. Installation: pop the hood, and remove the plastic engine cover. I assume you know how to remove the front plugs. So I'll only focus on the rear plugs. Start on the right side. Unclip some of the vacuum hoses and spread them out to the sides of the opening. You should see a hole that extends back underneath the air intake and next to the exhaust manifold. Reach back there with your arm. feel for a 1 inch square block and securing hex bolt. Using feel only, use the 10mm closed-end box wrench and loosen the securing nut. A hard counterclockwise tweak should break it loose, and about a half dozen more small loosening motions should loosen the bolt so you can switch out and use your fingers. Remove the bolt and place it away from the engine in a safe place. Lift the boot assembly out. Watch to make sure the rubber grommet doesn't slide off and fall in the oblivion never to be found. WithOUT the rachet driver, get the socket and extension and slide down tube, then reach in with rachet and unscrew the spark plug. Remove the rachet, and lift extension and spark plug out. If your socket doesn't grip the spark plug, take it out, wrap the lip with a little masking tape). Installation is the reverse of removal. Get a new spark plug. Slide it inside the spark plug socket and make sure it grips but not too tightly. The plugs are pre-gapped at the factory and have a plastic sleeve to protect the head. You must NOT allow the plug to drop down the tube because the impact could bend the tip and affect the gap or damage the plug. There are two metal compression washers on the spark plug. There's no room for a torque wrench back there, so tighten the plugs down until the compression washers just begin to feel like bottoming out. Then twist another 30 deg. Do NOT slide the boot/coil assembly back over the spark plug yet. The first boot must remain out from its tube to allow the second boot room for removal. The middle boot assembly is a bit harder. It's just like the first, but you need to disconnect the wire harness clip to each boot/ignition coil.. With a single hand, rock the boot assembly a little until it lifts up and off the plug about 1 inch. Then turn the boot assembly clockwise a little and use the technique you practiced to unclip the wiring harness from the boot assembly. There is only room for one hand in there. Be persistent and follow technique and practice. Eventually, you should be able to get the wire clip off. Now the boot/coil should lift out easily. Then use the spark plug socket and reach back in there and slide the socket down the tube and then attach the rachet driver and remove the spark plug. Installation the reverse of removal. Again, be careful about dropping any parts down into the engine. The 3rd boot is like the 2nd, because you need to disconnect the wiring clip, but it's different in that instead of reaching in from the right side, most of the extraction uses the opening from the left side. My dealer claims this can take 2 hours of labour. I used simple tools and did all six myself in 1 hour 15 minutes making lots of little mistakes. If you follow these directions and have simple tools and do not exceed my dimension recommendations, you should be able to get in there and do this in under 45 minutes. Good luck. For more information on this and related procedures please visit: http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=12402

It's not complicated at all,just need a 5/8 spark plug socket, a rachet, a 3" extenton and a 5" piece of hose that fits tightly on the top of the spark plug. The 3 on the front are the easiest, the back 3 are a little more complicated because of the lack of room to operate, that's when the hose comes handy, first loosen the plug a couple of turns with the rachet, and then insert the hose in the spark plug and turn it CCW. To install them, insert them in the hose and screw them in the plug hole until thight, then pull the hose off and finish tighten with rachet. Make sure do not overtighten.

good luck

Engine off
Remove one spark plug wire / using correct size spark plug wrench with / rubber boot designed for spark plugs (deep well socket with rubber boot) remove (1) spark plug / gap new replacement spark plug to specs / install replacement spark plug by hand into head of engine /finger tight /using spark plug socket and rachet finish tighting spark plug / tighten just beyond snug being careful to not over tighten and breaking spark plug ..if in doubt about the proper tighting consult motor manual for torque specs. use torque specs in conjunction with appropiate torque wrench . Re-install removed spark plug wire ...proceed to remaining spark plugs doing one at a time until completed.

Maybe you will be surprised but I have never used torque having replaced thousand of spark plugs so far. I prefer to feel by myself the right torquing. maybe not for yours but for several types of engine, you will have to use ratchet extension, universal joint(s) to reache the spark plugs affecting the reading of your torque wrench. Threads condition, temperature of the parts (cold, warm) will also influence right reading. Do not conclude that I never use T wrench. For your safety and part 'longevity' it could be mandatory.
These things being said, just for your info the right torque should be in between 11-17 pounds-feet (15-23 N.m)
Hereafter is the way I do.
- Follow the manufacturer recommendations about spark plugs specifications. If NGK has an equivalent, GO FOR IT it's the best
- New spark plugs will be already gapped to the spec so take care to not knock the electrodes
- Yes it's a good idea to put some 'antiseize' stuff on the spark plug threads. Take care to not go over and soil the electrodes
- Proceed when the engine is cool down
- Replace the spark plug one by one beginning by the most easy positionned. Going one by one will warming you up and will avoid wiring mixup (severe risk depending of the engine)
- Take care to avoid that any dirty drop in the head hole once a spark plug is removed
- Put in place new spark just using socket and rachet extension by hands. DO NOT use rachet at this point. Doing so, you'll have the feeling and will avoid to screw it cross-thread.
-When you're sure that it is well engaged (lets say screwed half of the threads) you can go ahead with your rachet. To avoid to get it 'overthighted' I drive my rachet with one hand
over the rachet head (not by the handle). When you feel that you are at the maximum of your strength using this way, then just give a LITTLE BIT of 'thighting' with one hand on the rachet head and the other on the rachet handle (lets say 10 degrees max) and that's it.
- If you have silicone grease apply some with a 'cuetip' in the boot of your wire before to put it back in place.
-Make sure that the wire is right back in place pushing on it firmly with an kind of rotational motion
- Repeat the same process for each of the others.
- If you don't feel safe, you can try to start your engine after each of the replacement for few seconds to make sure you did well. It could avoid problem investigation by the end if something went wrong during the whole process.
Maybe I provided to many details but maybe it could help any other beginner readers.
Sorry for my english
Hope it will help
Dan

ok that is not the easy the ones in the front those are the easy ones but the ones in the back thse are dificul ones so in order to change those spark plug you need to race the car and try to change them from underneath this is one way the other way is to remove the intake sistem and change them from the top

you will need the tool made for pulling the boots off but then all you need is a 3/8 rachet ,about a foot long extension, a universal , then probably 13/16 spark plug socket <could be peanut plug depending on the manifaturer of the plugs> I recomend using bosch or ngk plugs. intake removeal is not needed ....will clear all plugs with intake on but may need to unplug a couple injectors for clearance but don't forget to plug them back in

If your calling the steering shaft the handle bar.you need to put tthe socket on the plug first then use a wrench that will fit the hex on the out side of the socket to fist loosen it tne it will be easier to turnwith a rachet or just by your fingers.If it's the plug i'm thinking of it is a pain to change.