Okay, seen this before and its part of the Antitheft system or Power Minder system.. You need to pull out the new battery and charge it to at least 13.2 Volts. A fully charged Battery goes from 13.2 to 13.4 Volts. The Antitheft system and Power Minder will actually disconnect the charging circuit while you are driving. It takes a certain minimum voltage to keep the charging circuit working.
I have jump-starter similar trucks and even if you have a Battery charger running, within 5 minutes of removing the Boost, the charging circuit will default and the Battery will discharge. The 7 Volts is about 1 Volt more than we had to our Starter.. The Power Minder system reads the discharge from the low Battery voltage and kills the power circuit to save the Battery drain. The Antitheft wants to kill the Starter for theft protection.
Someone should open a case with the NHTSA on this. But replacing a Battery is so random to Battery life expiration that the Engineering problem will be overlooked. I hope my solution is very helpful to you, but about all you can do is Zap the battery to the Max. The underlying problems will remain underlying until Ford does a TSB on this.
its not a recall but ford put out a service bulliten to the dealers, Its called the alternator wireing harness. If you follow the 1 of the two red wires that comes out of your battery one has a long black clip on it that says "fuseable link" just past this clip two smaller wires branch off. a short one that runs towards the front of the truck and a longer one that runs back towards the bottom of the battery, This longer one is resting on a aluminum AC pipe. Where the wire rests on this pipe, flip the wire over and you will see it is worn down to the bare copper threads, Tape it up and tape where it rests on the pipe or go to ford and order a new one, its a 10 min job you can do yourself. The part is under $40bucks
May be fuse box.
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