Ok, runs great when cold, but as soon as it warms up and only pulling out, or at low rpm it cuts out bad, runs on 1 maybe 2 cylinders, as soon as I get the rpms up it clears out and runs fine. Not long ago I went through several hundred dollars on another problem only to find it was a very small spec of dirt gathered on one of the wires of the maf sensor, i cant afford this again, please help!!!!
Welcome to fixya
I had this problem on a older car do not know if this will be any help or not but
i know there is a spring that controlls the choke when it is hot out and cold out this could be not set right so when the car heats up the choke starts to close i do not know what the spring is called but i know it can cause the same problems you have ...
hope this helps out have a good day :)
It sounds like something is getting hot and not working properly which could turn out to be a bad ecm or distributor if it has one, or bad crank sensor. Check the wiring harness coming from the firewall to the injectors, the injectors are spliced into one wire in this wire harness using a crimp connector, this connector will get moisture in it if you have ever sprayed the engine off and will get corroded, replace this connector and place heat shrink around the splice and it should fix the problem.
If none of the above work, Check fuel system but nothing major should be causing the problem. Check the timing on it could have a bad chain with the miles on it. Let me know what of this you have checked but go through the above until you find the problem. Is the engine light on? Does it light up when you turn the key on?
Also, how does the oil pressure look?
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Hi,
Initially, could be a leak in the intake manifold (gasket); when the engine has warmed up and the idle starts to be rough, could you try spraying "ether starting fluid" along the junction of the intake manifold and the cylinder head. If the engine has warmed up, the idle goes rough and smoothen when sprayed, confirmed vacuum leak. Of course it could also be any of the vacuum hoses that are not locked by clamps.
Alternately, have you checked the Idle Air Control Valve (most likely)? Remotely, you could also check the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) (likely) and/or the idle up solenoid (least likely).
BTW, how is the mileage?
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Check your tail pipe when it's cold with your finger or paper towel, and if it is real sooty and dry, you are running too rich and will need to lean your fuel mixture.
Also if that spec of dirt contaminating your MAP sensor caused damage to the reed, it may be at fault also and need to be replaced.
Check if there is regular spark on cylinder, If not there is a problem with distribution.
Bad or dirty injectors can also give similar troubles.
Sounds like injectors. check them.
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thanks rocky, but i had them cleaned and flowed on the last problem
on last problem I replaced, fuel sending unit and pump, all fuel lines,fuel filter, o2 sens, exhaust manifold, cap, button, plugs, wires
well, I assumed it is running rich and loading up at low rpm, but what is causing this?
Also the maf is the "hotwire" type in the side of the throttle body, I dont knw of any reed and when this was cleaned the truck ran very smooth through the entire rpm range when before it would just stop pulling.
ve sprayed enough ether to start a fleet of trucks, no leaks!!! but I havent checked the idle air valve.
milage 180000
I also unhooked the pressure reg and plugged the vac line, drove it, didnt change.
dont know if this is an acceptable test?
if there was oil in the dist. i would think it would run bad at any temp or rpm
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