Question about 1986 Porsche 944
Hello, I purchased an 86 944 turbo as a project and having fun with it. It came with a stock anti theft alarm system. The problem I'm having with it is that even with the alarm turned off, it sometimes goes off as I'm driving, lol It feels like I'm stealing my own car sometimes and the other times it's just embarrasing, lol. Could you help me figure it out, please.
you need an 'anti-theft' code to reactivate the radio. whenever the
electrical power to the radio is interrupted the system "thinks" that
the radio has been stolen and it goes into anti-theft mode.
if you purchased the car new, then you might find a white card about the size of a credit card with the owners manual or papers you received when you bought it. that card would have the anti-theft code on it.
if you can't find the card, call the dealer you bought it from. they may have the code on file from when they sold the car. however, most dealers only keep records for 7 years and often in remote storage locations so don't count on them having the code.
if you don't have the card, look inside the glove box for a white label about 1" long and 1/2" high. It may have two rows of numbers or just one. If it has two rows, the 5 digit number on the top is your anti-theft code. if it has one row of numbers about 9 charactors long, it is the serial number for the radio.
if you have only the serial number for the radio, you can call any Acura dealer, give it to them and ask them to look up the radio code on their Acura system. each radio code is specific to the serial number of the radio; there is no 'universal' code.
if you can't find the tag in the glove box, look under the rear trunk lid. if the car has an ashtray, pull it out and look at the backside or underside of the ashtray. the dealers put the tags in a variety of places when they did the initial inspection on the car.
if you can't find the tags, then try this. with the key in the igntion switch and the key ON but the rado turned OFF, hold in the station select buttons number 1 & 6 with your right hand. then, while holding those buttons in, turn the radio ON with your other hand. You should see a series of 5 charactors on the display starting with the letter U and followed by 4 numbers. write them down. then the display will change to a second set of 5 charactors starting with the letter L and 4 numbers. write them down. then call the honda dealer and give them those numbers--those numbers are the serial number of the radio.
if all else fails, the radio will have to be removed to get the serial number off of the manufacturer plate on the back of the radio. dealerships will not charge to retrieve the code for you but will charge to remove the radio.
hope that gives you some direction. I think you'll be able to get the radio activated again. one note--you have 3 shots to enter the code correctly or you'll get an error message. if you get that, disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it off for 3 minutes to clear the error mode. then reconnect the cable and you can then enter the code.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
SOURCE: 86' Porsche 944 turbo
well it could be the seals, but also you may have to look at other sources of the oil, i have been reading this thread i found online and somehow the problem poster had almost the same as yours and was able to trace where the oil is coming from. here is the thread good luck, hope you get the culprit identified.
Oil Leak on Porsche 944 Turbo intake
Posted on Aug 03, 2008
Ok, here's what I would do, and I've done a few ;-) First of all I have to ask, sorry; beg and plead with the previous owner to have another look, go to the dealer and see if they have a way of getting a code or a box in the shop full of random keys you can try (I have this at my shop), scour the car for every nook and cranny...everywhere, some people hide them.
If all of this fails, you need to go to Sears or any auto / tool store that sells sockets individually. Buy a handful of 1/2 inch drive 12 point sockets, you can return the ones you don't need. You want one that almost slides onto that keyed head of the wheel bolt, but won't. You will also need a BFH (big frickin hammer), a small sledge works well, a 6"-1/2" drive extension, a 1/2" johnson bar as well, not a ratchet handle, but a bar with a pivoting 1/2 stub on the end.
The first step, with the car on the ground, take the proper wheel wrench and TIGHTEN all the non-locking wheels bolts another 1/4 turn, or as much as you reasonbly can. The idea here is to take some of the tension off the one you are about to remove.
Now, put the socket that doesn't quite fit, on the 6" extension and put that on the johnson bar. Place this on the keyed socket as if you are going to remove it. Get a good position so that the johnson bar has some room to travel counter clockwise toward the ground. If possible, a good johnson bar will allow you to pivot it back toward the wheel, you want to keep the torque center-line inline with the wheel bolt if you know what I mean.
Now get a helper, one that has used a hammer before. Have him hold the 6" extension with one fist, and beat on the end of the johnson bar with the BFH, driving the extension and socket toward the wheel bolt. As he is striking it, you are supporting the bar and ever so slowly trying to undo the wheel bolt.
The combined effect of the over-tightened wheel bolts and the shock to the keyed bolt, while you drive the splines of the 12 point socket into the key's slots, will allow you to feel it release in increments as your helper hits the end of the johnson bar and extension.
I hope I explained this well enough, it has worked many times for me and after you have done the first one, the others go fairly well. I should probably make a youtube vid for fun.
Let me know how it works out.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Your going to have to buy four 9 point socket and a 5 pound sledge hammer, a breaker bar, a pipe, and 4 new lug nuts. If you lost the key to your anti theft lug nut you can take it to a professional tire repair shop and they can remove the lug nut's for you and hope they have a key that will work. If not there have a tool that can take the lug nut off, with a cost. If your going to try it your self, place the 9 point socket slightly smaller on the lug nut and hammer it on. Be careful not to hurt your self or the car. Once the socket is seized on the lug nut, use the breaker bar and the pipe as an extension for leverage to take the lug nut off. Once off discard the lug nut and socket and do the other three the same way. Good luck and hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
SOURCE: Stock anti theft system
Lights flashing, horn blaring, not good for you and neighbors, the system is controlled by the cluster which is also the body computer, tied in with the front controll module, the only way to disarm is with your RKE key, when you press lock, does the horn chirp, and chirp or lights flash when you unlock it? your key also has a chip in it to help disarm from the wcm, part of the halo with the ignition switch, there is no disarm swicthes in the doors on this model, only remote keyless entry here, there is something not working for you, are your keys good, possible wiring problems in the drivers door jamb, this system monitors the doors and liftgate, this is not a system that can be overridden or removed. It can be only accessed by a Chrysler dealer. GOOD LUCK, RDJRP
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
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