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2001 toyota tacoma 3.4 timing belt replacment having trouble lining up marks correctly

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  • nrobertson1 Aug 13, 2008

    took 4runner in for new timing belt now it harder starting and been back twice to the toyota garage they say nothing wrong.

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5 Suggested Answers

emissionwiz
  • 60867 Answers

SOURCE: Timing belt posision

1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom. 2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless. 3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be. 4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3. 5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on. 5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over. 6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt. 7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry. 8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner. 9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6. 10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate. 11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6. 12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away. I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need. would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to find timing belts marks toyota rav4 2l

I have just replaced my water pump on my 1998 RAVE4, also, the timing belt and the other two belts. I had a tough time with the timing marks. The way you line these marks up is easy if you take the time, First, if you are changing the timing belt you pull the balancer and both top and bottom plastic covers,(do not try to pull top cover off before you take off balencer and the motor mount off or you will just break it.), Second after covers are removed you will have access to the timing belt, you can now remove it by loosening the tensioner bolt and pushing down on the tensioner wheel, the belt then can be taken off. Third take out number one sparkplug and replace the bottom cover by maybe two bolts so that you can see marks on cover, next replace the balancer and bolt. Turn the motor over by hand with the balancer so the small divit on the back of the balancer is on 0 or top dead center on the compression stroke, you can use a compression gauge for this or I just used a mirror and light to shine in the number one cylinder to see the piston. Next remove the balancer and cover and make sure to make a mark on crankshaft gear and housing. Next you will need mirror and flashlight, now turn camshaft gear clockwise to line the hole in the gear with the top timing mark. I recommend a small circle mirror for this. Now replace the belt. I turned the crank shaft gear one tooth counter clockwise off mark and the camshaft one tooth clock wise off mark so when the belt is on you can turn the camshaft gear counter clockwise to get tension on the belt and marks will line up. I would recommend changing water pump,tensioner wheel, and the idler wheel. After belt is on I would replace the bottom cover the balancer and the crankshaft sensor. Iwould then start it to make sure the water pump is not leaking and the motor is not pinging or you will have to tear it back apart again. Good luck and no I am not a certified mechanic just thought this would be helpful from my own experience.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

yotaguy
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: timing belt of toyota tundra 2001, V8 motor 4.7

Here's the diagram you need4582d6e.gif

Posted on May 09, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 60867 Answers

SOURCE: need marks for timimg belt

On the crankshaft gear there is a VERY small dimple that aligns with a mark on the motor. The mark on the motor (a small triangle) is at roughly 11 o'clock. After you line these timing marks up look at the camshaft gear and you will see that on one of the spokes there is a hole. You need to use a mirror to line this hole up with the dimple on the cover that is behind the camshaft gear. (It is at roughly 1 o'clock) If this hole is 180 degrees from where it should be you need to rotate the motor 1 more revolution at the crankshaft and it should now be lined up, or close. Once lined up I like to take a silver (metallic) Sharpie and make my own mark on the camshaft gear and on the backing plate that is behind it. You can make this mark where ever it is convenient for you. As long as you know where your marks line up, that is all that matters. This way I don't have to use the mirror as often.

  • Step 5 Once you have your timing marks aligned you need to locate the tensioner. The tensioner obviously keeps the appropriate amount of tension on the timing belt.
  • Posted on May 26, 2009

    dttech
    • 4803 Answers

    SOURCE: i have installed a new

    There is only 1 "set" of timing marks. If there is more than 1 then someone has modified your engine components. Here is a picture of where they should be.

    dttech_46.gif

    Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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