Can you give me an idea of what causing my clutch pedal hard to depress? I'm having this problem since I (third hand owner) acquired my 1993 Nissan safari last 2007. Although I already got used to it and don't even bothered by its hard to depress but when somebody drove my SUV, they always complain about this problem and I confirmed this when I drove my boss' land cruiser and its clutch pedal was very soft to depress. Please give me an experts' advice so that I can have my Safari repaired with an accurate solution to save me some time and money. Thank you very much.

There is a bleed valve on the slave cylinder that is on the transmission bell housing. Use an 8 or 10 mm wrench and loosen the valve, then snug it just hand tight. Now have someone depress the clutch pedal. As the pedal is depressed, loosen the bleeder and let air or fluid out. Close the valve as the pedal hits the floor, then repeat until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out of the bleeder as the clutch is depressed.

In many cases, the hydraulic clutch will gravity bleed when the bleeder valve is open. This is especially true if the fluid line from the clutch master cylinder (on the firewall) down to the slave cylinder is not bent up or around any objects, but is pretty much a straight drop down to the slave cylinder. If it won't gravity bleed by just opening the valve, have a helper work the clutch pedal as described. Remember to close the bleeder before letting the pedal up, so that air won't be sucked back in through the bleeder valve.

Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).

The pedal return spring should be checked. Also the pedal bushings where pedal connects to the pedal support up under dash may be worn and not allowing free pedal movement. Work the pedal with your hand and watch the upper mounting of the pedal to see if you can see the problem. I would expect the bushings need replaced. You might try a little light oil where the clutch pedal attaches.

Engaging in the top third of pedal travel isn't unusual.

Clutch drag can be caused by a worn or broken diaphragm, damaged pressure plate, worn or damaged withdrawal mechanism or contamination of the driven plate, among other things...
There are two other causes of clutch drag worth considering - rusted or damaged first motion shaft splines or a bad clutch pilot bearing, if fitted.

In all cases the transmission will have to be removed for access.

you may have a bad clutch switch which will only allow the car to start with the clutch pedal depressed.it allows power through the switch only with it depressed to start the car so you won`t start the car with it in gear causing an accident.there will be a switch that the clutch pedal pushes against that allows power to flow through it to start the car.there should be power on one side with the key turned on and power on the other side with the clutch depressed.

No sorry to be the bearer of bad news but i think the fingers on the clutch are worn to excess and when the clutch is depressed fully the bearing is going through the fingers of the clutch causing the noise you can hear .Eventualy it will need a new clutch which is not expensive if you do it yourself

A "hard" clutch is also a common problem. All clutches require some amount of force to depress fully. If you have to press hard on the pedal, there may be something wrong. Sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch.

you have to see if it's a hydralic clutch or manual clutch.if it is a hydralic it might not be the assembly but the slave cylinder but if manual it could be the spring under your dash or the bushing on the assembly are shot

raise and support vechicle safely.remove slave cylinder.hold slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle.with bleeder screw at it highest point.have a helper fully depress hold clutch pedal.then open the bleeder screw. then close the bleeder screw.and have helper release the clutch pedal repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system.keep check on on master cylinder keep fluid level full.to keep air from being drawn through the master cylinder.never release a depress clutch pedal with bleeder screw open.or air will enter the system.

So, are you ready for some help with your clutch problem? I will give rhe shop the benefit of doubt and assume they didn't check everything..They did the simple process of parts replacement which it will never be known whether or not you even needed a clutch.. Should we continue?