Rear window goes up tilted on left side.seems to be loose.I have to pull it up on left side by hand.

The electric window could either be the fuse,switch, or window regulator motor at fault..Sometimes the window motor electric plug can vibrate loose or become loose from door slamming..Also the switch can become loose as well or contamination if you are lucky..You will have to remove door panel to inspect these components..and fuse panel..The light could be a faulty bulb..Check and replace bulb..before involving the signal indicator switch lever...If bulb is at fault go ahead and change bulbs at both rear sides..Do not try to repair signal switch because of air bag..If you can hold down on the turn signal switch and it works the switch is at fault...

heck for 2 bolts at the lower edge near the floor if no bolts push lower seat inwards and lift up it should pop up , use a large screwdriver.

1 Open the door, place the blade of the screwdriver behind the lock switch on the door panel and pop it out of the door panel. Repeat this process for the trim panel around the power window switches and the interior door handle, pulling both of those pieces off of the door.
2 Unbolt the door panel from the door using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. There are bolts behind the door lock and in the corners of the panel. If this is a front-door panel, pull off the triangular panel that covers the mirror bolts using your hands. Then lift the door panel up towards the top of the door, and then pull it off the door.
3 Plug in the window switches again to the harness on the door. Roll the window down halfway until you can see the bolts that clamp the window in place through the access holes. There are two 10mm bolts that clamp the window to the window track, and there are access holes that allow you to unbolt those clamps using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Unbolt the clamps at this point
.4 Pull up the rear of the window--the section toward the back of the Tahoe--and tilt the window up so that it is oriented perpendicular to its normal position. Pull the window out of the door panel, tilting it in towards the interior of the vehicle.
5 Slide the replacement window in place in the same manner you pulled out the stock window. Tilt the window back into the clamps, then loosely tighten the clamps in place. Roll the window up and down a few times to make sure it fits correctly, then tighten down the clamps on the window using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.
6 Reassemble the door panel in the reverse order of dis assembly.




Custom Wheels For Mustang

From 2006 to 2010, the Sonata's 3rd brake lamp requires the rear package deck be removed to access that bulb.
1. Remove the rear passenger seat bottom (remove two12mm bolts between the seat back and the seat bottom - tilt the seat back forward to locate these bolts).
a. Press the two bottom front edge tabs to release the front of the seat bottom from the floor.
b. Remove seat bottom & set aside w/two 12mm bolts
c. Tilt both seat backs downward
2. Remove the left & right hand shoulder cushions (12 mm bolt at the bottom of each cushion)
a. Remove seat belt from shoulder cushion guide at the top of the cushion
b. Lift up and forward on shoulder cushions to remove them (if equipped with side airbags, disconnect wire harness connector).
c. Set shoulder cushions aside w/two 12mm bolts
3. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop out the 'SRS' button cover from the C pillar panels on the left & right hand side to access either the phillips head screws, 10mm bolts, or #30 Torque Screws
a. Remove screws and set aside
b. Using a standard flathead screwdriver, pop out the C pillar panels on both sides (clips hold these panels in place)
c. Set these panels aside after removal w/screws/bolts
4. Trunk Access-way panels are held in place by phillips head screws (two at the bottom (left and right hand sides) and 4 to 5 at the top .
a. Remove left and right hand panels and set aside w/screws.
5. Rear package deck held in place with two plastic clips (white, yellow or pink)
a. lie on your back inside the trunk (trunk lid open to allow for more light). Looking through access hole find 3rd brake light wire harness connector & disconnect.
b. locate package deck clips, one on the left and another on the right on the underside of the pckage deck
c. Squeeze clips to push them out - package deck will come loose
d. Remove package deck & remove 3rd brake lamp bulb socket (turn counter clockwise to remove). Replace bulb & reassemble in reverse order.

I would say the right hand cable has popped out of the handbrake lever attached to the brake shoe.The drivers side seems to be working by the sound of things.
Remove the right wheel and then the brake drum and have a look to see if the cable is attached to anything.If Iam dealing with rear brakes that I have not done before I jack up both rear wheels and sit on axle stands .Remove both wheels and drums and then replace them one at a time.If i forget how it goes back together I go and have a look at the other side.Easy as pie.Hope This Helps

After you open the rear hatch look on the sill of the frame on the right hand side of the truck. You must insert the Jack crank into the hole and turn it counter clockwise to release the holder and the tire will tilt down from underneath. If it does not release then you may have to pull it down as the mechanism has been known to seize. After you open the rear hatch look on the sill of the frame on the right hand side of the truck. You must insert the Jack crank into the hole and turn it counter clockwise to release the holder and the tire will tilt down from underneath. If it does not release then you may have to pull it down as the mechanism has been known to seize.

I don't tilt the engine, If you reach under on the left side (rear) you can reach all plugs to remove and replace. Once you get your hand under the ignition module there is alot of room.

A car I owned the left rear window did that. I could pull it up by taking a hold of it while another person held the switch. They told me the problem was the track was made out of plastic and it had broken. They had to replace the track. Yes it was expensive to repair but is ok now.

push it in and it might be a key release???? idk all hondas have some kind of weird thing in them....like my civic, it has a barrel key thing under the dash on the side of where the stereo goes on the driver side and i still to this day have no idea what it does, lol.

Hi,

This is the most common problem with this type of steering column and it becomes loose by using the steering wheel to get in and out of the car. The answer here is general and there will be some slight differences as it pertains to your car.
I have been asked where to get a good blow up drawing of the column and the problem is that even the service manuals don't tell you all you need to know.
You will need to purchase or rent at a parts store a steering wheel puller. A lock plate compression tool and a pivot pin removal tool.

Good luck!

I don't know of a good blow up. Commonly factory service manuals will have you take apart things that are not supposed to come apart. The bearings are most likely not the problem but the 4 yoke bolts are. They commonly come loose by grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
Remove the horn pad (7 mm or 9/32 either will work on the back of the steering wheel. Push downward on cancel cam tower and turn counter clockwise. The horn wire is now disconnected. Remove 13/16 steering wheel nut. Index marks may be hard to see. Take a screwdriver and put on upper shaft and tap. Put adjoining mark on wheel if these factory marks can't be seen. It is for reassembly and so that the steering wheel is put on the way it was taken off. Never use a hammer on the upper shaft to remove steering wheel!Install puller using 2(2) 5/16x 16 x 3 bolts. Draw the wheel off. Install rented lock plate removal tool. Note the position for reassembly. Compress lock plate down and remove snap ring by holding one side with a flat blade screwdriver. Insert an ice pick awl at the ring opening and bring upward. Remove lock plate. Take note for reassembly that lock plate only fits one way om the splines. There is a matching broach (Tooth missing on lock plate and spline missing on shaft. Pull off cancel cam and upper shaft spring. Take a small Phillips and push in on the 4 way flasher and unscrew. Hold together while unscrewing so it does not fall apart on you. Take a Phillips and remove the turn signal screws and the turn signal pivot. Pay attention to how this pivot slides in the groove of the wiper switch.

Here comes the fun part____


Remove the screws from the panel under the steering column.--- The shift bowl is located where you shift the transmission. Below the bowl leading under the dash is the lower shift bowl shroud. On the passenger side of the shift bowl under the dash will be a clip and string. Remove the clip by pulling it off the lower bowl shroud. You are doing this so you don't wreck the PRNDL.
Under the dash remove the (2) 9/16 nuts that hold the steering column bracket on. Remove the (4)1/2" bolts that hold the bracket to the column. Underneath the dash on the passenger side of the steering column will be a plastic sleeve holding the wiring. Pull away from column and the downward. Don't worry about the gray thin shroud. That's just for the cruise wire which when putting back together can be installed in the main black plastic shroud.
Push upward on turn signal wiring from its column bracket. You may no have to disconnect any wiring. Go back to top of steering column. Remove (3) #2 Phillips screws. Make sure keys are not in ignition lock. Take hook tool and grab edge of key buzzer and pull upward. Steel retainer spring will fall out for key buzzer when you remove upper cover. Watch for it. Its about an inch long, doubled up piece of black spring steel. Set to side when you get that far. Next remove the ignition lock cylinder by inserting a screwdriver into the clip at the rear of the lock inside the steering column. Pull lock out. Pull upper cover upward and let hang by wiring. You will find at the tilt lever there is another part to the upper cover. Look for a piece of white plastic with a circular end that slides on the inside of the cover (left side). This is called the high beam actuator. Leave the tilt lever and end cap attached. Tilt the bearing housing to full upward tilt. Insert a Phillips into the square hole in the tilt spring retainer cap. Push down and turn counter clockwise. Grab spring and retainer and remove.
Insert pivot pin tool on passenger side of column. Now, once you have screwed the tool into the pivot pin, do not over tighten. Hold the screw head with 3/8 wrench. Use ½ open end to draw nut down. If it seems like the pin is seized tilt the column up and down a couple of times. Usually there is not a problem, but trust me, you don't want to break the puller off in the pivot pin. Repeat on left side. Hold your foot on the brake. Pull on tilt lever while with tilting in upward position, go a little left and remove housing. The ignition actuator rod will become disconnected with the rack. The rack has a loop on one end and teeth on the other. Set it to the side. Do not let the upper shaft fall downward. It could fall off or the little shaft inside could fall out. You will see (4) inverted torx bolts. Some people will remove one at a time and install locktite. I have never done this and have never had one come back. Its up to you. If you intend to use the steering wheel for getting in and out of the car you may want to use locktite.
Now, you do not need a special socket here. Use a ¼ nut driver with both hands and tighten. Then use a vice grips, wrench, whatever you can to tighten these bolts. They are tight enough when the socket starts to slip. Do not tighten any tighter than this. To install the rack insert a screwdriver into the slot of the geared sector on the left side of the bearing housing. Rotate sector far enough where you can slide the rack in. You need to line up the big tooth in the sector to the big tooth opening in the rack. Once this is done pull the spring towards you either with your fingers or needle nose and insert spring into slot on sector. Take the ignition actuator rod on the left side of the column and pull until dash lights come on. Make sure it is set into the groove. Grab the bearing housing with both hands. As you are getting close to the steering column you need to take the loop from the rack and put it over the end of the ignition actuator rod. The high beam actuator rod that is bent outward goes through the big hole on the left and let it just hang. Once looped around pull on tilt lever and install bearing housing slightly tilting up and down once attached. Insert pivot pin. Insert other pivot pin. Insert bearing race, retainer and spring on upper shaft. Hold the spring downward with one hand and tilt the column up and down with other hand. This helps center the race and it also checks the tilt. Next, take a needle nose and turn lock shaft on right side of bearing housing. Engine should start. Put shaft in lock position. Hold the spring on the upper shaft while tapping on pivot pins till flush. Put in full upper tilt and install tilt spring. Push downward and push cap with screwdriver downward and turn clock wise till seated.
Under dash on driver's side of column you will see high beam switch. The rod fits in the center of this switch. Back at the column to make sure the high beams work, push on the rod. You will hear a clicking. Take the high beam actuator and insert it into the groove in the cover. Make sure circular end is facing towards the lever. You need to slide this actuator all the way forward. When looking down the rounded end should be facing downward towards the floor. You will see where this cover rests on the bearing housing. Hold cover up against housing by the tilt lever. With the other hand insert the upper cover back on the column. As you are doing all this pull on the wiring from under column. Line up lock pin in cover. Take an awl to line up high beam actuator with cover. Cover will lie down on column once lined up. Hold cover downward and pull back towards you the turn signal lever to make sure high beam switch works. Pull wires at bottom of column gently accept for turn signal. Inert three # 50 torx. Insert ignition lock cylinder and retaining screw. Take awl and push button up from lock cylinder from key buzzer hole. Insert key buzzer spring to key buzzer. Squeeze and insert into hole and push down. Install turn signal switch and pull wires at bottom of column gently where turn signal switch lines up. Insert three screws. Line up ball from turn signal pivot into wiper switch groove, line up with t/s hole and insert screw. This screw has a wide head.
Install 4 way flasher. Install cancel cam as you marked it for disassembly. Install lock plate. Wheel has to be lined up with the index marks. Install. Insert horn wire into cancel cam tower and press down on cap and turn clockwise. Install horn pad. Under dash install plastic wiring shroud. Reinstall t/s connector on column. Install bracket. Attach steering column to dash. Hold the brake. Put trans in neutral. Pull on string and install clip so PRNDL says neutral. Put trans in PARK. Start engine. Check PRNDL when putting in drive. You may have to adjust clip's position to get this lined up. Install lower dash.