Question about 2002 Jaguar X-Type

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Driving at speed is ok but when accelerating to approx 50mph the 2.0L diesel enginge "misfires" a couple of times or dies a little then drives through it.

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  • davidjdw Jul 20, 2008

    I have the same problem with light acceleration, ie 50 mph in traffic. Also at 70mph on cruise control.

    I have run a fuel cleaner through the system with no joy. I also know of another jaguar doing the same thing.



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I would start by checking the EGR valve for heavy deposits. The EGR valve is responsible for introducing already burned exhaust gases back into the engine with unburned air from the turbo charger/atmosphere. Because burned exhaust gases have already been burned they can not be burned a second time and are inert. By reintroducing these gases and displacing the clean air entering the engine this lowers the combustion temperatures and improves emissions. Because of the nature of the job it does it gets carbon-ed up very quickly and starts to stick resulting in the symptoms you have described. It is situated under the engine cover just to the left of the dip stick. not to difficult to clean inside but must be removed. A good fuel system cleaner would also be beneficial. Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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Welcome to fixya

i it sounds to me like you have a dirty injector ....put in a injector cleaner...or could be the fuel might have water in to ...or your fuel tank has water ,dirt, rust in it ...i would try the injector cleaner first cheaper fix the ripping out the fuel tank

i hope this helps you out have a great day :)

Posted on Jul 18, 2008


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1996 Geo Prizm

could be lots of things, its EFI.
what you mech, does, is use tools and gauges. to gather evidence.
he also has a scan tool , to see what EFI is doing.
That jerking is called Misfire (not arguing names, ,but using the right name allows better google searches or getting help)
this can be (lost spark or lost fuel or too much fuel)
the prism has distributor, and if the car has and old cap, rotor and wires. then they are no good. finish the 60,000 mile tune up.
if its misfiring, it might be:
1: bad spark.
2: bad fueling.
bad spark ? tune it up fully this time.
bad fueling, is complex.
sure fuel pump, but why does the pump magically work on over 50 demand which is more demand?
my guess is lean misfire. at cruise.
when you go over 50mph the ECU can drop using the oxy sensor.
this is normal and goes rich.
so maybe the 02 front sensor is bad or an exhaust leak near it.
a scan tool can find this in a jiffy , a $50 tool)
you see the oxy sensor ,reading wrong or dead at low speed cruise.
ok stop sign stalls. (in order of most common 1st)
1: EGR main sticks open (clean it)
2: running rich and it misfires so bad, it stalls.
fuel pump reg bad? and fuel pressure way too high.
3: fuel starvation.
what a tech does, is make car fail, and look at the sensors to
see what is going wrong. Evidence, is first. guessing at parts never.
lets see the op guide shows the 60k as....
new cap,rotor wires.sparks. (they dont last 100k, sorry)
new fuel and air filter.

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You did not say whether or not you changed the plug wires when you changed the plugs. I assume so, but if not you may want to try swapping the #7 wire with another wire of similar length at both ends and see if the miss goes away or moves to the new cylinder. Visuals can be misleading with plug wires as they can be easily damaged and break down with age. If they are original to the vehicle, I would not hesitate to change them at this time. The "lack" of miss at highway speed, on an 8-cylinder vehicle, is often the fact that it may not be felt when little or no engine load is present. Other than that, the miss could be caused by a leaky valve (most likely exhaust). This would result in low compression of the cylinder, resulting in misfire. A compression check will find this easily. Leaky fuel injector can also cause misfires. If the cylinder gets too much fuel, the spark may fail occasionally, causing a misfire condition. There are other things that can cause misfires, but not in just a single cylinder such as you describe.

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OBD test failure

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
  1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner2_bing.gif on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater2_bing.gif, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
  3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator2_bing.gif pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

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