I tryed replacing the pads on my protege 5 2002 but i wasnt able to push the cylinder back in the galliper , im wondering if there is somekind of safety device or else , or if its just stuck in place , can you help me please, thanks
Re: brake pads replacement on mazda protege 5 2002
If these are back brakes you can't just push the piston into the caliper , because the handbrake mechanism is keeping it locked. Try turning the piston clockwise with pliers , or check if there is a blanking plug on the back of the caliper. This would cover an adjustment screw which you turn with an allen key to retract the piston.
Re: brake pads replacement on mazda protege 5 2002
If you cant push the piston into the caliper, unscrew the bolt on the back of the caliper and u can then insert a 3mm hex key and unscrew another bolt, that will loosen up the hand brake control and your piston will go in easily. I spent 2 hours fighting this until i read that on some other forum and worked like a charm :)
IMPORTANT - when u tighten the hex thing back, you MUST loosen it up a bit (1/8 of a turn or more) so ur wheel spins freely. Otherwise ur pads will rub way too much.
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If you have a cable operated clutch then replace the cable as it is binding up inside the case. If you have a hydraulic clutch system the replace the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder as there is a problem with the rubbers in the units that have expanded from contaminants and are seizing up in the cylinders.
There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder
when you pull the weel, you need to loosen the caliper from the rotor. once they are loosened, pry the caliper off the rotor. remove the old pads. use a caliper tool, you can rent one from an auto parts store or buy one, they are not expensive. use this tool to push the caliper piston back. place new pads, hook the caliper back on the rotor and fasten. replace the wheel. your done. barring any problems, it will be about a 10-15 min per wheel.
pads should have at least 1/8th inch then replace.......rotors,if you can feel a ridge with your finger, then fit new (dont bother to cut them as they are cheap enough) .i used a machine to undercut a clients and they came back 3 weeks later with a bad vibration due to rotors warped...who do you think they blamed?????
It's your disk pad wear indicator warning you of imminant replacement of pads . They ground electrically thru contact in brake pads and require attention. If light goes out it's not a level problem and cheap replacement .
it is to help push pads off of rotor after you let off brakes before yo insert pin put spring between pads rn pin inside loop then there should be holes in pads where end of sprin will sit so it doesnt tilt up or down
Some calipers have a bolt holding the hand brake mechanism to the body of the caliper. hold the mechanism with a spnner or If yours dont simply lever the mechanism with a bar or long screw driver. Place a pair of lock pliers/ mole grips on the cable(not too tight or you'll fray/damage the cable) then remove the cable from the caliper. When you get the pads out use a screw driver or wind back tool to reset the caliper travel or you will damage the caliper or lose the hand brake altogether.
When I change my front brakes, I use a "C" clamp to slowly push the piston back in. (You can get them for a few dollars at Wal-Mart, etc.) Make sure you open the brake fluid reservoir while compressing them, as the fluid level will rise; but don't leave the reservoir open too long, as brake fluid will absorb water from the air.
For the parking brake, I'm not sure. I think the parking brake often works off of the rear brakes, so changing the pads should have helped there. Maybe air in the lines? Do you have any trouble with "soft" or "mushy" brakes when you use them? If so, you might want to bleed the system, to get any air out - it can be dangerous.
try autozone.com to see if they have your car listed for diagrams pictures and step by step instructions if your car is not listed then try your local library they have all the car manuals and even copy them for you