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You seem to have covered almost everything electrical. That leaves mechanical. Either valves sticking, frozen, or spring, cam broken. Fuel line or injector to that cylinder is the only other item I can think of. Let me know how it works for you.
if you have spark and fuel, it may be a timing belt/chain problem...symptoms are that: 1. the engine seems to be spinning faster than normal when cranking, 2.distributor rotor will 'stutter" when turning with the cap off and if the crank is brought to 0 (TDC) the rotor will not point to the #1 position on the cap (sometimes needs to be turned twice or it will point 180 degrees away...that is normal) also, 3.compression will be very low in most cylinders. Weak spark (check at plug wire end and coil wire) or a flooding condition can also cause that so make sure you don't have either (or both) as well.
Sounds like your timing is off when you placed the distributor back in or your spark plug wires are crossed. Start with the simple and check the spark plug wire firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Cylinder numbers drivers side 1-3-5-7 radiator to firewall. Cylinder numbers passenger side 2-4-6-8 radiator to firewall. Distributor cap #1 is at 5 O'clock and rotates clock wise. Once that is establish to be good then make sure the cylinder 1 is at TDC with the distributor rotor at the #1 position. Good luck and hope it's a crossed firing order.
Checked and cleaner EGR?. Misses all the time or just at idle, going down road? Have you tried pulling one plug wire off cap or plug at a time to see if you can isolate which cylinder it is, then work from there? Don't forget, Insulated pliers or similar to pull those wires.
Open the hood and look down at the front of the cylinder head, right above the the exhaust manifold. I would suggest changing the spark plugs, the plug wires, the coil wire, the distributor cap and the rotor button.tarting with the wires. Sound like the electricity is arcing to the surounding metal surfaces.