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? 14:56
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rwj74yo2knY
Jun 15, 2013 - Uploaded by Schrodingers Box
Removal of an instrument panel cluster on 1996 Ford Ranger to... 1999 Ford Ranger: How to change dash board lights, walk through part 1 ...
? 2:42
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzxz7iG81kI
Sep 18, 2008 - Uploaded by expertvillage
Use socket wrench to loosen dashboard bolts. Learn about technique for installing dashboard lights in a 1996 Ford Explorerin this free auto repair series fr. ... do you need to remove the radio bezel to get to the clips?? will this ...
Sounds like the instrument cluster main wiring harness pins on the instrument cluster circuit board. How are you with a soldering gun? Just re-flow the solder on the 13 pins of the main wiring connector on the instrument cluster circuit board, and you should be fine. To get there, you need to remove: - the lower dash panel under the steering wheel (5 screws), - instrument bezel cover around the steering column (2 screws), - instrument cluster cover (3 screws to my recollection), - and then instrument cluster (4 screws)
If the problem returns or persists, then consider re-flowing the solder on the #331 resistor on the body control module circuit board - there is only one of these on the circuit board. To get the bcm out, remove: - lower dash panel under steering column (5 screws) - metal kick plate - 10 bolts and 1 screw (although not necessary, you can get more room by removing the lower metal dash bracket as well - 5 bolts) - three 10mm bolts holding the bcm in place - 2 wiring connectors on the bottom of the bcm - 4 wiring connectors on the front of the bcm - You need to back off the connectors with a nut driver - they were either 11mm or 12 mm
Then: - remove the metal bcm cover - 3 small bolts - remove the circuit board - 4 screws - use a magnifying glass to find the #331 resistor You're probably best off replacing this resistor while you have everything accessible. (this is apparently the standard re-build fix for these bcm's) I didn't have a suitable replacement, so I just re-melted the solder. After re-installing everything, all my previous dash board gremlins disappeared.
Give yourself 2-3 hours (well maybe 4) for all this.
1. remove the piece that goes directly on top of the steering column.. this is held by clips, no screws
2. remove the one screw that holds the dash piece that goes BELOW the
steering column.. this can now drop down by pulling it - the rest is
clips.
3. remove the 3 screws that are visible that hold the dash piece that goes ABOVE the instrument panel. that piece is NOT ready to be pulled off yet!!
4. begin to carefully pull that dash piece that goes ABOVE the
instrument panel out until you can access a spot where the headlight
switch is coming out with the panel - there will be a plastic piece
that you need to push in that acts like a clip - then the headlight
switch can be removed and you will see the final screw that holds the
panel in place - remove that screw.
5. once you have removed the above, you can access the 4 screws that hold the instrument panel in place - remove them.
6. carefully pull the instrument panel out. if you want to completely
remove the instrument panel for easier access to the lights, you will
need to first remove the transmission indicator ( P N D 2 1).. this can
be achieved by looking along each side of it for the clips, pushing
them in and sliding the piece down off the instrument panel.
7. pull the instrument panel outwards until you can access the wire
harnesses.. push the clip in and pull them out (there are 3 harnesses
for the instrument panel).
8. the instrument panel can now be
completely removed and you will need to flip it over to see the back of
the panel. the small white plastic pieces are all labeled on the pc
board - ford even throws in some extra free bulbs if you dont have 4x4
(they install the bulbs the indicate your 4x4 status even if it will
leave the factory without 4x4!).. the larger black ones are for the
backlighting for the gauges - these must all be turned
counter-clockwise to remove and clockwise to put back in.. they can be
tough to get out and pliers can aid in turning them to remove.
9. follow the instructions in reverse to reassemble.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of a common heater core and case
assembly
Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly drain the
engine cooling system to a level below the heater core.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes near the cowl.
The instrument panel carrier is designed not only to provide access
to parts through removal of the carrier components, but the carrier will
also tilt downward as a complete assembly to allow access from the top.
If this is desired, remove the retainer screws along the top and bottom
of the carrier assembly (refer to the figure). The instrument panel
will then tilt as an assembly into the cab. It is necessary to unbolt
and lower the steering column from the carrier to allow for maximum
movement of the instrument panel.
The instrument panel must be removed or repositioned for
access to the heater core case. Unbolt and either tilt the instrument
panel forward or disengage the instrument panel components and remove
the panel from the vehicle. In most cases, tilting the panel forward
should be sufficient for the necessary access.
Unfasten the heater core rear case retaining screws, then remove
the rear case for access to the heater core.
Loosen the retainers and remove the heater core retaining straps.
Remove the heater core and seals.
To install:
Install the heater core and seals, taking care not to damage the
core tubes when inserting them through the cowl.
Install and secure the core retaining straps.
Install the rear case and secure using the screws.
Reposition and secure the instrument panel and components. Tighten
the cowl screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm) and the lower instrument panel
screws to 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm).
Connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
Connect the negative battery cable, then properly refill the
engine cooling system.
Run the engine at normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks.
First check all the fuses that say instrument panel, and if they are all good then you will need to remove the dash and replace the bulbs on the right side. I hope this helps please rate this and thank you
There is a fuse for the instrument under the dash on the drivers side, if the fuse is good. Then give the dash a hit with your close fist right over the instrument panel, sometimes that brings it back to life. It's common for the wire harness clip on the instrument panel circuit board solder goes bad and need to be re soldered, the heat of the current after a few years will melt the solder and the clip comes loose and needs to be re solder back in place. Just remove the instrument panel from the dash, disconnect the wire harness and remove the circuit board and solder the clip back in place. Good luck and hope this helps. be glad to help.
Remove lower left trim panel from instrument panel. Remove knee protector (USA only). Disconnect connector (2). Pull out resistor for heater - A/C fan (1) in direction of arrow (as shown) and remove. Behind center of dash board left Please Remember to RATE ME Thank You Very Much !
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