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I have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 58,000 miles and I need a new water pump is that too soon for a water pump to go bad. Also, would that make my check engine light come on. The diagnostic test said I have o2 sensor problem too.
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Do a compression check on all cylinders to verify blown head gasket. If there is water/fluid on your oil dipstick, you can skip the compression test - it\'s blown. No water/fluid? Do a compression check. Pass compression test? Check your oil pump. After that???? Perhaps a vacuum test to see what is going on. Or finally, (wouldn\'t be the first time I have seen it), have your new thermostat tested. Some are junk right out of box - especially aftermarket brands.
I would have the 2005 Chevy Impala's computer scanned for codes to see what is causing the check engine light to go on. It is not unusual for a 'miss' or an O2 sensor to go bad on such a high mileage vehicle.
Have it checked, though, in order to pinpoint the problem sooner.
That could be a bad lower intake manifold gasket. Have it checked by a mechanic as soon as possible; left unfixed, it could quickly destroy your engine.
NOW. These cars are notorious for timing belts snapping and GM has advised to replace at 60K. I have this car and it has an interference engine, meaning that if the belt snaps there is a good chance the engine's pistons will bend the intake/exhaust valves, meaning you would have to have the engine rebuilt if this happens.
I am about to have mine changed, along with the water pump and tensioner since the water pump should be replaced before 100,000 and involves the same labor. I've found that at a Chevy dealership the whole package ranges from $500-$800 depending on who you call.
I had a 01 impala that was **** too. switched to Ford and havent been to the shop since. If you look at the question breakdown for this website you will see 5 times as many posts for chevys than fords. However, you could have gotten a bad rebuild too. I had a rebuild done once and they boke most of the bolts that held the transmission in and didnt replace them.
You brakes are no longer any good.Most times, the squeaking and rubbing noises are caused by brake pad wear, but you say the brakes are fine. Otherwise, if by constant rotation speed you mean the squeaking/rubbing noise is present even when the brakes are not applied, you might want to get the wheel bearing inspected. also check out -------- The most common would be a loose P/S belt. If it is tight but is still the source, it could be a restriction in the P/S system causing high pressure and resistance in the pump.
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