Question about 1992 Isuzu Rodeo
The stalling cound be your idle control; on the throttle body. The ticking noise is either from the timing belt hydralic tensioner or a valve lifter. If you hear the ticking in the front of the engine on the 3.2 v-6 it is most likely the tensioner. As for changing the timing belt it is a very involved process ( I've done it many times ). Everything on the front of the engine comes off including the engine balancer on the crankshaft.
The idler pully and belt tensioner are located at the bottom of the engine near the crank on the passenger side of block. Now there are two cams, water pump ( Change that also when you are down there ), crank pully to run the belt over. There are timing marks on the cover plate behind the cam pullies and one on the crank a notch that lines up on the oil pump cover. REMEMBER THIS DO NOT MOVE THE CAMS AND CRANKSHAFT WHEN YOU HAVE THEM LINED UP. If you are not sure get the manual and get a good friend who is a good mechanic. This it an advanced repair job; you mess up the timing and you will bend valves at the minimum..
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
Do not listen to this **** belts and **** the problem with this engines and all over head valve engines is that the tapets become lose and are supposed to be re adjusted ever fourty
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
A very common problem with these engines is a clicking sound in the engine, it can be a slight annoying click, to a loud knocking sound. I end result is usually the same, replace your timing belt and tensioner. I researched this problem when i bought mine, and it was knocking. i replaced the timing belt, (which was loose) and actually took the tensioner apart and cleaned it (not recommended for the mechanically challenged). new tensioners may be tought to find. when i put it all back together, it ran smooth and quiet.
Posted on Sep 05, 2008
I have a 95 Rodeo and was experiencing this problem myself. When I went to have the emissions check and I didn't pass they told me that I had a miss. I changed the plugs and the wires, and that still didn't fix it. It ended up being a Ignition Coil. Once I changed this I got rid of the tick and I the entire car ran better. I got 5 more mile to the gallon on my gas. To check this you can follow your plug wires one by one to the coil or distributor cap. With the car on, using a pair of insulated pliers, take your plug wires off, one at a time. When you pull the wire and there is no electricity coming through the wire, then you know that that is the coil not working properly. So, if your plugs are good and so are your wires, this would be the next thing to check...
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
A loud tick sound is a miss, so you’ll probably have an issue with wires or distributor cap. If it’s a really soft ticking that seems to either get worse or disappear with acceleration, I’d expect that it’s belt tension. There are 3 (if you have AC) so if you did the belts recently, you probably over-torqued one, or more, of them. If you’re experiencing rough idol after messing with belts, that’s almost always it.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Aug 23, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it comes and goes, chances are the hydraulic lifters are dirty. You may get luck by adding Marvel Mystery Oil to your engine oil, this will clean out all the sludge and carbon in the engine's internal moving parts. Do this for then next few oil changes, just keep an eye on the oil level. The Marvel Mystery Oil is thinner and will burn out much quicker, but should be good for 3,000 miles which is the next oil service interval. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to answer any more questions you may have.
Posted on Jan 24, 2010
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