DISC BRAKES R FRONT CALIPER DOES NOT RETRACT. IT WAS REPLACED & THE REPLACED CALIPER DOES THE SAME THING. COULD THIS BE 2 BAD CALIPERS OR DOES THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE FEATURE CAUSE THIS?

stop and do not drive, get a brake man, in the loop, danger !


this is cause by the MC, the master cylinder, no ABS in 92
not replacing relic calipers in pairs is dumb, sorry risking life and limb using old 20 year old calipers is not bright. a fact, not opinion.
are both caliper locking, at ONCE?
that is the key question .
reasons. (answer for BOTH clipers locking at once)
1: bad calipers ,no piston lasts for 21 years, ever. (relic)
2: the MC piston is not retraced,

#2 is caused for 2 or 3 reasons,,,,
2a; brake pedal adjusted such that the factory play behind piston rod is not zero or minus, causing the MC to lock hydraulically.
2b; the booster was changed and the PP mechanic (weak) did not
RTM , they did not adjust the new booster, calibration ring stated in the FSM.
3: if one caliper (good) locks the rubber flex line is breaking down
inside and is clogged. 21 year old lines are not good to trust.
not life and limb or mine when you hit me...
that too, is fact.

the guide pins must be free, and antisieze lubed or with special
99cent OTC brake grease (very high temp rated,) ask.
the pistons rust. DOT3/4 is hygroscopic and will rust in 21 years.
not a guess. fact.
One other point, 21 year old caliper seals will no longer have
stiction, they fail to retract the piston and the pad drag. wasting fuel and pads. new seals. better, newly rebuilt Raybestos calipers
will make them safe.
fixing brakes in a serial fashion is asking for trouble.
do not cheap out on brakes.

I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted.
First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper ,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor.
http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html

It is either the caliper piston will not retract after brake pressure is relieved or the flexible rubber brake line itself has collapsed internally, causing constant pressure to be applied to the front brakes.

1. did you bleed the system?
2. front and back?

One side,turns right,and push in slightly,and the other side turns left,to retract.

no that is only the older rear calipers on gm and others. the fronts do not have that style caliper and sound like the calipers are frozen and may be way your changing the pads. try opening the bleeder screw and then compressing them if they go then you need need brake hoses and if not you need calipers. god luck man

You will probably not need anything other than a metric socket wrench set.

Many Toyota models have disc brake calipers that will flip up or down when you remove one of the two bolts that hold the calipers on. I am not sure of the setup on the Sienna.

When you remove either the upper or lower bolt and move the caliper, you can then remove the old pads. Also, you will need to push the piston(s) back into their cylinders to give you enough space to install the new pads. A large C clamp will usually suffice to push in the pistons.

I assume that you are talking about the front (disc) brakes. Some autos still have drum brakes on the rear, and those are a different story. They require several specialty tools to remove and replace the shoes.

The first thing to replace is the front rubber (flex) line that goes to the caliper from the steel brake line. They can go bad on the inside and not allow the caliper to retract when you take your foot off the brakes. If the rear brake is sticking it isn't retracting properly also, but try the front fix first and see what happens.

If its the front brakes you are working on and the piston won't retract into the caliper then you need a new caliper, or both actually. Calipers need to be replaced in pairs. If you are working on the rear then you need a special tool to turn the piston back into the caliper. you can get the rear disc brake tool at any auto parts store. Turn the piston clockwise to retract it, and pay attention to the little spots cut out of the piston that the tool grabs to turn it. They need to be at the top and bottom of the piston once you fully retract it or the little pin at the bottom of the inside brake pad wont sit against the piston. And once again if it still wont retract then you need to replace both calipers. Once you are finished you need to pump up the brake pedal and then pull up the parking brake lever and release it 10 to 20 times to adjust the piston.

Probably a restriction in the brake line from the master cylinder to the wheel.

Most of the time brake hoses do this (collapsed hose or hose inner liner) but the restriction could be anywhere from the point your front brake pressure divides to both wheels to the caliper of the wheel. The problem is not the caliper itself because the bleeder is able to relieve the pressure.