Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Remove the wheel(s) on the side to be worked on.
NOTE: Removing a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder using a turkey baster
Fig. 4: Tighten the C-clamp until the piston reaches the bottom of its bore
Fig. 5: Remove the caliper mounting bolts
Fig. 6: Slide the caliper off the brake rotor
Drain a small amount of the brake fluid from the front reservoir using a suction gun or a turkey baster.
Place a C-clamp on the caliper so that the solid end contacts the
back of the caliper and the screw end contacts the metal part of the
outboard brake pad.
Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves far enough to force the
piston to the bottom of the piston bore. This will back the brake pads
off of the rotor surface to facilitate the removal and installation of
the caliper assembly
Fig. 7: Support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose
Fig. 8: Hold the anti-rattle clip while removing the outboard pad (4)
Fig. 9: Removing the outboard brake pad
Fig. 10: Remove the inboard pad and anti-rattle clip
Fig. 11: Removing the inboard brake pad
Fig. 12: Removing the anti-rattle clip
Do not push down on the brake pedal or the piston and brake pads will return to their original positions up against the rotor.
Remove the C-clamp.
Remove the caliper mounting bolts. Tilt the top of the caliper outward and lift it off the rotor.
Hold the anti-rattle clip against the caliper anchor plate and remove the outboard brake pad.
Remove the inboard pad and the anti-rattle clip. Be sure that the support spring is removed with the inboard pad.
Fig. 13: Install the support spring onto the shoe of the inboard brake pad
Fig. 14: Installing the inboard pad
Fig. 15: Piston extension on new and worn brake pads
Use a piece of wire to support the caliper so that no tension is
placed on the brake hose. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake
Do not use abrasives on the bolts in order not to destroy their
protective plating. You should not use compressed air to clean the
inside of the caliper, as it may unseat the dust boot seal.
Clean all the mounting holes and bushing grooves in the caliper
ears. Clean the mounting bolts. Replace the bolts if they are corroded
or if the threads are damaged. Wipe the inside of the caliper clean,
including the exterior of the dust boot. Inspect the dust boot for cuts
or cracks and for proper seating in the piston bore. If evidence of
fluid leakage is noted, the caliper should be rebuilt.
Before securing the caliper, ensure the brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touching any chassis parts.
If not already in place, attach the support spring to the inboard brake pad.
Install the anti-rattle clip on the trailing end of the inboard
pad's anchor plate. The split end of the clip must face away from the
Install the inboard pad in the caliper. The pad must lay flat against the piston.
Install the outboard pad in the caliper while holding the anti-rattle clip.
With the pads installed, position the caliper over the rotor.
Lubricate the caliper pins and bushings with silicone grease. Line
up the mounting holes in the caliper and the support bracket and insert
the mounting bolts. Make sure that the bolts pass under the retaining
ears on the inboard shoes. Push the bolts through until they engage the
holes of the outboard pad and caliper ears. Thread the bolts into the
support bracket and tighten them to 7-15 ft. lbs. (9-20 Nm).
On models with manual/power brakes, pump the pedal until the
caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated. On models with anti-lock
brakes, turn the ignition ON and allow the booster pump to build
pressure. Pump the brake pedal until the shoes are seated and the
indicator lights turn off.
Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and pump the brake pedal to seat the pads.
Install the wheel assembly and lower the vehicle. Check the level
of the brake fluid in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
Remember to rate this, good luck.