Question about 1999 Audi A4
You'll need a metric wrench set, ratchet, 8mm Allen bit, torque wrench, 17mm socket (for the lugs), and likely a breaker bar, a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
Remove the wheel first. Then look at the caliper - it's made of two pieces bolted together. At the top and bottom, see those black accordion-looking boots? On the backside of those are two bolts that must be removed. Once they're off, you can pry the center section of the caliper (which holds the pads) off, levering the screwdriver against the carrier. Don't let it hang by the e-brake cable or fluid line - hang it with a wire hanger, bungee cord, or let it sit on something.
Then, the remaining part of the caliper that is still bolted up (called the carrier) has to be removed. For this, you'll need to remove two bolts on the rear side that bolt it to the hub. To take them out, you need an 8mm male Allen bit. Once they're out, the carrier comes off, and the rotor will come right off (you may have to hit it with a rubber mallet).
Be sure to replace your pads when you replace the rotors though - don't reuse old pads with new rotors. To change the rear pads, just pull them off the caliper. You'll have to borrow, buy, or rent a piston retracting tool to get the caliper piston back in far enough to allow a new set of pads to seat on either side of the rotor. The front calipers can be compressed with a C-clamp, but the rears are a screw-in type that require a screw-in tool (for lack of a better term). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood so that the piston can be screwed back in without having to fight the pressure from the fluid in the lines. Screw the piston back in, seat the new pads (put some anti-squeal grease on the back sides of them), and after the new rotor is on and the carrier is bolted back up, load the caliper with the new pads and remount it to the carrier. Tighten the brake fluid cap now, before pushing the brake pedal down.
Last step is to bolt your wheel back on - use a torque wrench and torque to 90 ft-lbs using a skip-one method to ensure even torque across the face of the hub. Pump up the brake pedal several times to be sure you have pedal pressure that you can rely on.
Bed the pads in by getting the car up around 30mph and stopping it with solid, firm, consistent force on the pedal - don't push the pedal farther toward the floor the slower you go - keep the pedal pressure even until you stop. Do this five or six times and you should be good to go.
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
on May 10, 2012 | 2001 Buick LeSabre
Feb 12, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Sep 23, 2010 | 2003 Toyota 4Runner
Apr 20, 2010 | 2007 Kia Spectra5
Nov 15, 2009 | 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD
Sep 11, 2009 | 2003 Mazda Protege
Apr 18, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe
Mar 28, 2009 | 2000 Ford Explorer
Mar 15, 2009 | 2004 Buick Regal
504 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: